Ids 810 

I.S4 
Copy 1 




LIBRARY of CONGRESS 

Two Copies Received 

MAR 9 1907 

. Copyrlent Entry 

,&sup. s-J, "96 Q, 

CLASS A' XXc„ No, 

COPY B. 






Copyright, 1906, by 
THE NEW YORK CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY 



NEW YORK 









OUR JOURNEY TO JAPAN 



OUR start is made on February 22d in the early 
forenoon. The grandchildren, Carola, Fred- 
erick, Gerald, Baby Paul, Dorothy (John 
having been left at home), all have come to 965 Fifth 
Avenue to bid good-by to grandparents. A bright, 
sunny morning, and we start from home in the finest 
of spirits, accompanied, as traveling companion, by 
our nephew, Ernst H. Schiff. At the Twenty-third 
Street ferry of the Pennsylvania Railroad we meet 
our other traveling companions, Mr. and Mrs. Alfred 
Heidelbach, Mr. and Mrs. Henry Budge, and Mr. 
and Mrs. Siegmund Neustadt. Aside from our chil- 
dren, and the family, we find a bevy of friends assem- 
bled at the ferry, who have come to wish us Godspeed, 
most of these accompanying us to Jersey City, where 
a special train furnished by the Union Pacific Rail- 
road, consisting of two private cars, baggage and 
officers' car, is waiting to take us on board for our 
journey across the continent. The start is made at 



eleven o'clock, and with the speed of the Pennsylvania 
Limited trains we proceed through the Eastern States 
to Pittsburg, which we reach in the evening, proceed- 
ing thence promptly to Chicago, and reaching Chi- 
cago at nine o'clock in the morning, February 23d. 
We do not tarry, but proceed, after taking on a dining 
car, around the town and over the Chicago & North- 
western Railroad. Our journey becomes interrupted 
at Sterling, 111., where we find the track broken in 
two by an ice gorge. After six hours' delay, the 
prompt repair of the railroad being found impractica- 
ble, our train is switched to the tracks of the Illinois 
Railroad, over which we proceed to Omaha, reaching 
there in the early morning of February 24th. Here 
we are joined by Mr. Mohler, Vice-President of the 
Union Pacific Railroad, who takes our party in charge 
to accompany us over his line. In rapid flight we 
hasten westward. The country at this time of the 
year offers little of interest — only barren fields and 
snow-covered mountains. Without any incident we 
reach Salt Lake City on Sunday, February 25th, at 
noon, where we are received by Mr. Bancroft, Vice- 
President of the Oregon Short Line Railroad, and 
taken to the Knutsford Hotel for a day's stay in the 



city of the Mormons. Salt Lake City is a fine inland 
town, having been laid out with considerable foresight 
by Brigham Young, head of the Mormon Church — 
its founder. The city has little of particular note or 
attraction except the Tabernacle and Temple, the 
latter not accessible to those not belonging to the 
Mormon Church. We visit, however, the Tabernacle 
on Sunday afternoon during service, which a vast 
mass of people is attending, the service being rather 
monotonous. Next morning, Monday, February 26th, 
a private recital at the Tabernacle is arranged for our 
party through the good offices of Rabbi Freund, which 
we enjoy greatly and at the conclusion of which we 
proceed direct to the station and leave Salt Lake City 
at noon over the San Pedro, Los Angeles & Salt Lake 
Railroad, the new short line to southern California, 
recently completed. Its general manager, Mr. Wells 
(with his wife), joins our party to see us safely over 
the line. We proceed along the Salt Lake, take note 
of a number of new large smelters in course of con- 
struction, and after a quiet evening we retire amid 
wintry scenery, to rise on Tuesday, February 27th, 
greeted by the early summer beauty of southern 
California. The railroad traverses blooming orange 



groves, the trees heavily laden with the beautiful 
golden fruit, and before long we reach Los Angeles 
in the early forenoon. Here we do not stop except 
to change engines and to have attached to our train the 
car of Mr. Calvin, Vice-President of the Southern 
Pacific Railroad, who, with other officials of his com- 
pany, has come down from San Francisco to bid us 
welcome into his territory and to accompany us to 
Santa Barbara, where we arrive during the afternoon 
of the same day and where we purpose to rest several 
days. A short walk brings us from the Southern 
Pacific station to the Potter Hotel, where quarters 
have been reserved for us. The Potter is a new cara- 
vansary of enormous size, accommodating something 
like 1,500 people, the hotel being quite full at this 
season; it is kept on the so-called American plan, and 
we are fairly well provided for there. The rooms 
assigned to us are light and airy, very plain in their 
appointments. The fare at the hotel, while plentiful, 
is not of a high order, but we have been so greatly 
spoiled by the splendid dining arrangements which 
had been made for us in our special train across the 
continent, that perhaps our judgment as to hotel food 
has become somewhat biased. We pass the evening 



quietly at the hotel, meeting a number of acquaint- 
ances, among others Mr. and Mrs. Gordon, of London, 
who already had been to our house in New York and 
who inform us that they are likewise bound for Japan 
on the same steamer we purpose taking. The next 
morning, Wednesday, February 28th, we set out in 
carriages to explore the beauties of the surroundings 
of Santa Barbara, taking a drive to Monte Cito and 
Miramare — two most attractive villa settlements — and 
return to the hotel for luncheon. In the afternoon, 
accompanied by the ladies, we take a walk through 
the town, which in itself offers little of interest, but 
we are all pleased to get some exercise, which, after the 
several days on the railroad cars, we all are in need 
of. The evening is passed quietly in the lobby of the 
hotel. Next day, Thursday, March 1st, we again uti- 
lize the forenoon for driving, this time into the hills 
surrounding Santa Barbara, which for beauty of views 
challenge comparison. Indeed, some of our party are 
of the opinion that the shores of Southern Italy, from 
Sorrento to Amalfi, so celebrated for their great scenic 
beauty, do not excel the charming vistas of this moun- 
tain drive. We return to the hotel after a three hours' 
outing, enthused by the impressions we received, and 



unanimously vote Santa Barbara " one of the most 
beautiful spots on earth." In the afternoon an excur- 
sion to Santa Barbara Mission, about two miles dis- 
tant, is undertaken, the men on foot, the ladies taking 
the very comfortable trolley car. Santa Barbara Mis- 
sion, with its church and little cemete^F, is one of the 
many similar missions which were planted by the 
Spaniards along the southern California coast at the 
time of their conquest of the country, and like most of 
these Missions offers little else than historic interest. 
The evening is again spent quietly at the hotel. The 
following morning, Friday, March 2d, we are again 
ready for a drive, this time the Cliff drive being chosen. 
This stretches along the shores of the Pacific, and while 
very charming, does not offer anything of special in- 
terest to dwell upon. We are gone some two hours 
and a half and return to the hotel in time for luncheon. 
In the afternoon we repair to the Country Club for 
tea. The little club, about two miles distant, is charm- 
ingly situated, overlooking the sea. The ladies re- 
turn to the hotel by carriage, while Budge, Neu- 
stadt, and I have a fine walk along the asphalted 
boulevard, which stretches along the ocean almost the 
entire distance from the Country Club to the town. 



Once more the evening is spent at the hotel, in con- 
versation with a number of Eastern friends, who have 
arrived during the day. Saturday, March 3d, be- 
comes a more or less enforced day of rest. The weather 
threatening rain, we take a short walk only in the 
morning, and ^e have scarcely returned to the hotel 
before the downpour comes on in considerable vol- 
ume, so that we are compelled to stay indoors the 
balance of the day. Having arranged to depart the 
next morning, we go on board of our train late Sat- 
urday evening, all glad to be back again in our 
palatial moving quarters, which no hotel can sur- 
pass. Early the following morning (Sunday, March 
4th) our train starts northward for San Francisco. It 
is a most beautiful ride along the Californian coast 
between Santa Barbara and San Francisco, a distance 
of about 375 miles. First ascending the St. Mar- 
guerita Mountains, a fine piece of engineering, the 
railroad keeps continually in sight of the ocean, tra- 
versing a number of the most lovely valleys, passing 
Mount Hamilton, topped by the Lick Observatory, 
and entering the magnificent Santa Clara Valley, 
which it follows almost its entire length before San 
Francisco is reached. We arrive at the latter place 



at five o'clock in the afternoon, and all feel rather 
sorry to abandon the comfortable cars, in which we 
have traveled almost 4,000 miles between the Atlantic 
and Pacific. All are full of appreciation of the manner 
in which Mr. Hudson, the Assistant Superintendent 
of the Dining-room service of the Union Pacific Rail- 
road, who accompanied us from New York to look 
after our comfort, has discharged every detail of this 
duty which had been assigned to him. Quarters for 
our party at San Francisco having been engaged at the 
St. Francis Hotel, we repair there and find most com- 
fortable rooms ready for our reception. The evening 
is well advanced before the very considerable load of 
baggage of the entire party arrives from the station 
and is properly distributed in the divers apartments, 
so dinner time has come before we are ready for the 
evening meal. We dine at the hotel, and as the restau- 
rant is to our liking, we then and there conclude not 
to accept invitations during the few days of our stay 
in San Francisco. After dinner Mr. and Mrs. Philip 
Lilienthal and Mr. and Mrs. Jesse Lilienthal come to 
welcome us, and the evening passes rapidly in pleasant 
conversation. Our rooms become filled with beautiful 
flowers sent by friends, and remain so during our entire 



stay, enabling us to enjoy the nice bright flowers in 
which San Francisco excels. After a good night's rest 
we plan (Monday, March 5th) to see to advantage the 
sights that San Francisco offers; but in this we are un- 
fortunately interrupted by Mr. and Mrs. Alfred Hei- 
delbach, who inform us of their decision to return 
to Paris. It appears Mrs. Heidelbach's uncle, Mr. 
Rubens, of Paris, had been suddenly taken ill, and 
fearing his end to be near, expressed the desire that 
Mr. and Mrs. Heidelbach do not proceed further, but 
rather return, to meet him again before his end. Thus 
these friends have no choice but to abandon their cher- 
ished wish to come with us to Japan and are compelled 
to arrange to return. They decide to leave for New 
York on March 7th, with the intention of sailing from 
there on March 15th. All of this is much of a dis- 
appointment to every one of our party, for we all have 
become much attached to these friends, who had 
proved most congenial traveling companions. In a 
desire to spend the two days which remained before 
the Heidelbachs' departure to best advantage, we ar- 
range for automobiles, immediately after luncheon, to 
visit the Presidio (the United States military settle- 
ment), the Golden Gate (San Francisco's renowned 



and picturesque harbor entrance), the Golden Gate 
Park, and the Cliff House, all of which Mother and 
I had already seen on two previous visits to San Fran- 
cisco, and which prove of renewed interest. The 
weather is glorious, and Nature, yet so retarded at this 
season on the Atlantic coast, is already springlike, the 
atmosphere being very exhilarating. We enjoy three 
hours of most refreshing outing and return to the hotel 
in high spirits. Dinner is again taken at the hotel at 
a late hour, and after a short stay in the lobby of the 
hotel, where the guests lounge in the evening, we re- 
tire to our rooms and are soon in Morpheus's arms. 
Tuesday morning, March 6th, is utilized by the ladies 
for some shopping, by the men to visit friends, my 
own visits being to the officials of the Southern Pacific 
Company, to Mr. Lilienthal at the Anglo-Californian 
Bank, to Mr. Hellman at the Wells-Fargo Nevada 
National Bank, and to the Yokohama Specie Bank. 
The entire party then takes luncheon under the guid- 
ance of Major Rathbone at Finkfan's Restaurant, 
which proves very enjoyable. In the afternoon all 
take the trolley cars for the Golden Gate Park — desir- 
ing to enjoy this beautiful bit of landscape gardening 
by exploring it on foot — partake of tea in the park in 



Japanese style at the very nice Japanese Garden, and 
return to the hotel toward evening. Once more we 
take dinner among ourselves at the hotel restaurant, and 
after dinner receive a visit from Mr. and Mrs. Hell- 
man, Sr., as well as from their son and his wife, who 
remain until late. Next morning (Wednesday, March 
7th) brings us, to our great chagrin, the parting from 
Mr. and Mrs. Heidelbach, whom we take to the ferry 
for a last adieu before they retrace their steps east- 
ward. Thus our party becomes reduced from nine to 
seven, but we conclude that we must not permit this 
to interfere with the good spirits with which we had 
set out and which so far have been so well maintained. 
The party separates for luncheon, we ourselves taking 
our midday meal at Delmonico's, rather a second-class 
restaurant. In the afternoon Mother and I set out to 
make a few purchases and then visit Keith's Studio, 
where we rook at a number of the fine landscape paint- 
ings which have made this artist celebrated, and we 
decide upon the purchase of an attractive, not entirely 
completed canvas, which we order to be shipped, upon 
completion, to our country home at Seabright, where 
we hope to place it to good advantage. Leaving 
Keith's Studio we make a few calls and then go for 



tea to Mrs. Phil Lilienthal's residence, where we meet 
quite an assemblage of ladies, who have come to greet 
the ladies of our party. For the evening Mr. and Mrs. 
Jesse Lilienthal, as well as Mr. and Mrs. Phil Lilien- 
thal, join us at the hotel at a farewell dinner. This 
proves quite a nice little affair and we remain together 
until a late hour. The next day (Thursday, March 
8th) is sailing day for Japan. We have to bestir our- 
selves early, so that the considerable baggage can be 
taken in good time to the steamer, which is to depart 
at one o'clock. Just as we are about to leave the hotel, 
shortly after eleven o'clock, my relative, Robert Nie- 
derhofheim, comes into the hotel lobby, having just 
arrived from Japan. As we have no time to spare, we 
ask him to accompany us to the steamer, which he does. 
It is rather a novel incident: Niederhofheim crossing 
our path coming from the far Orient, whither we are 
bound, to return to the East, from where we have just 
come. On board the S.S. "Manchuria " all is life and 
bustle. Our staterooms are filled with flowers, fruits, 
and other gifts, not only from San Francisco friends, 
but also from friends in New York, some twenty of 
our friends having thus remembered us, which much 
touches us; moreover, any number of telegrams reach 



us, bidding us adieu and Godspeed upon our long 
journey. The " Manchuria " leaves punctually at one 
o'clock, and before we are aware of it we pass through 
the Golden Gate on our way to the Far East. Thus 
our long-cherished plan to visit Japan, which at times 
looked something like a chimera, has really entered 
upon its realization. Starting, as already said, at one 
o'clock, we soon sit down to our first meal on board of 
the " Manchuria." We have a table to ourselves for 
the party, the chief steward and his assistant placing 
themselves at our disposal for anything we desire. 
The food is quite palatable, plenty of variety, and with 
the delicacies and dainties which have been sent to us 
by our friends we feel assured we shall not suffer for 
want of food. The Chinese attendants look very pic- 
turesque, tall men, dressed in blue kaftans at breakfast 
and luncheon and entirely in white at dinner, with 
their pigtails hanging down almost to the floor. Our 
own suite of rooms — sitting room, bedroom, and bath 
— is most comfortable, the entire ship having a cheery 
look, and sailing along with remarkable steadiness; 
indeed, hardly anyone on board appears to be seasick. 
The company is pleasant, about 230 first-class passen- 
gers, some going only to Honolulu, but the large ma- 



jority bound for Japan and China; a number of mer- 
chants going out to the East on business, but a more 
considerable number being tourists, going to Japan, 
most of them on their maiden voyage to the Far 
East. We meet a number of acquaintances, some of 
whom have letters of introduction to me, such as Dr. 
Biddle, of Philadelphia, with his wife and three 
daughters, accompanied by Mr. Laughlin, of Pitts- 
burg, pleasant people, who, however, leave the ship 
at Honolulu, where they are to remain for two weeks 
before proceeding further. Of the Gordons I have 
already spoken, and gradually we become acquainted 
with most of the passengers, some of whom claim 
to know me by reputation, and introduce themselves. 
Thus a pleasant intercourse springs up; there are no 
cliques, such as are frequently found on the Atlantic 
lines, and life on board soon settles down into a com- 
fortable routine. I generally rise with the first gong 
at 7.30, take breakfast at half past eight, and then 
start for an hour's walk, finishing this shortly after 
ten o'clock. By that time Mother, who takes break- 
fast in her room, is ready to come on deck, and we 
take another short walk together, have short chats 
with friends, and about 11.30 o'clock I settle down 



with Ernst Schiff to dictate these leaves. This takes 
up the time until the luncheon hour, one o'clock, when 
we meet in the dining room, all generally in fine humor 
and especially friend Budge, whose dry humor and 
good appetite often force a smile even upon the other- 
wise placid faces of the Chinese stewards. It is much 
of a pleasure and satisfaction to see friend Budge in 
his sixty-sixth year so youthful in his activities and 
so ready to take everything from the most pleasant 
side. Friend Neustadt, too, is in perfect humor, pays 
court to every lady on shipboard, irrespective of age, 
though he appears to have a preference for the younger 
and pretty ones. After luncheon we disperse and a 
stillness settles over the ship ; apparently the require- 
ments of the digestion and the strong sea air produce 
heavy eyelids and make most passengers indulge in a 
soothing afternoon nap, notwithstanding the denial 
which the accusation that such is the case brings forth 
on the part of most. Tea hour is from four to five 
o'clock; we take our tea with the ladies, upon which 
occasion some pleasant " Klatsch " is generally in- 
dulged in, without any reputations being, however, 
sacrificed. Promptly after tea Budge, Neustadt, and 
Ernst take me in hand for the completion of my edu- 



cation, it having been decided between Mother and 
these friends that I must learn the game of bridge, 
and learn I must, whether I want to or not. They say 
I am making fair progress, though I know I have no 
card sense; but since the journey to Japan and the re- 
turn home will consume some thirty days on ship- 
board, that time ought to suffice to turn me at least 
into a fair dummy player; qui vivra verra! Our game 
of bridge generally lasts until shortly after six o'clock, 
when another constitutional is taken, the ordinary 
clothing exchanged for the dinner jacket, and at seven 
o'clock punctually, at the sound of the gong, we are 
ready for our evening meal. This lasts until about 
eight o'clock and then the gentlemen repair to the 
smoking room, the ladies withdrawing into the music 
room and lobbies for the rest of the evening. Mother 
generally occupies herself in the evening hours with 
embroidering and conversation, while I use the hours 
after dinner for correspondence, ending up with an- 
other short walk before I retire at about eleven o'clock. 
Six days after our departure from San Francisco, early 
on Wednesday morning, March 14th, we sight the 
Hawaiian Islands and we reach Honolulu at eight 
o'clock A.M., when the steamer makes fast at her 



wharf. When leaving San Francisco, Mr. Phil Lili- 
enthal had made me acquainted with Colonel Macfar- 
lane, a co-passenger on the " Manchuria," chamberlain 
to the late King of Hawaii, a personal friend, whom 
he had asked to arrange that our party could see 
Honolulu to best advantage during the short stop the 
steamer would make. Because of this Colonel Mac- 
farlane fully discussed on the way from San Fran- 
cisco to Honolulu plans how to get the best out of 
our short stay at Honolulu. Captain Saunders, of the 
" Manchuria," who had been instructed to make him- 
self agreeable to us as far as the service would permit, 
informed me after leaving San Francisco that discre- 
tion had been given him by the executive officers of 
the Pacific Mail Steamship Company to defer the 
usual departure of the steamer from Honolulu for 
twelve or eighteen hours, should I so desire, and as 
the Captain informed me we should likely arrive at 
Honolulu in the early morning, I arranged with him 
to defer the departure from the usual hour of sailing 
at the usual time of six o'clock in the afternoon of 
the same day to ten o'clock the next morning. Upon 
our arrival at Honolulu we are met by Mr. Kishi, a 
Japanese gentleman, agent of the Yokohama Specie 



Bank, who had been advised of our coming by Mr. 
Imanishi, the New York agent of the same bank, and 
who expresses the desire to show us some attention; 
further by Mr. Shingle, of the Henry Waterhouse 
Trust Company, likewise a friend of Mr. Lilienthal. 
I suggest to Colonel Macfarlane that he arrange with 
these gentlemen for a division of the time at our dis- 
posal, and that whatever programme they might work 
out would be agreeable to our party. Automobiles are 
in waiting and before long we are rapidly taken over a 
fine macadamized road a distance of about one hour 
to the " Pali," a huge projection of perhaps a thousand 
feet elevation, overlooking a splendid countryside and 
the ocean. After having enjoyed this fine bit of 
scenery, we retrace our steps and take a ride through 
the Chinese and Portuguese settlement to the so-called 
" Punchbowl," a hilly volcanic formation, from which 
likewise a fine but different view is enjoyed. We then 
drive through other suburbs of Honolulu, with many 
fine residences, and we greatly enjoy the luxurious 
tropical vegetation of the island, which abounds in 
royal palms, orange trees, pepper trees, rice fields, and 
rich, beautiful flora. We are told that this vegetation, 
while not quite as luxuriant in the winter as in summer, 



is almost the same in all seasons, the temperature of 
the island being almost unvaried all the year around, 
an average of between seventy and seventy-five degrees. 
Indeed, one can hardly imagine, without having seen 
it with one's own eyes, the fascination of this perfect 
paradise, the soothing effect of its climate, and the joy 
called forth through a nature so abundant in its richest 
gifts. Our forenoon automobile ride ends at the 
Moana Hotel, a modern hostelry, situated near the sea, 
which latter throws its waves upon the beach in the 
most perfect colors of blue, white, and green. At the 
Moana Hotel Mr. Kishi has provided luncheon for 
the entire party, in an airy dining pavilion; we much 
enjoy the meal, and during its progress we have an 
opportunity to see something of the winter population 
of Honolulu, which largely consists of Americans who 
have come to the island to escape the severe American 
climate and to enjoy instead the island's eternal Spring 
weather. Besides our own party, there are also at the 
luncheon a Mr. and Mrs.Greenbaum, friends of Budge 
and Neustadt; Mr. Hackfeld, one of the large mer- 
chants of Honolulu, representing the Pacific Mail 
Steamship Company; Mr. Shingle, Colonel Macfar- 
lane, and two or three other representative Honolulu 



people. After luncheon we again take to the automo- 
biles to ride to the Aquarium, which has collected in 
its sea-water tanks some exceedingly beautiful speci- 
mens of fish of rare colors, odd-shaped crabs, and other 
curious ocean specimens, in which the waters surround- 
ing the island abound. We then proceed to the resi- 
dence of Governor Cleghorn, an elderly Scotch gentle- 
man, who settled on the island over fifty years ago and 
married one of the King's sisters, and whose daughter, 
the late King having no children, would have succeeded 
to the Hawaiian throne had the monarchy been main- 
tained. We are told by Colonel Macfarlane that the 
young girl was sent to England there to receive an edu- 
cation specially to fit her for the royal duties which 
it was expected would devolve upon her. While she 
was in England, the revolution broke out at Honolulu 
in 1 89 1, by which the then existing Hawaiian Govern- 
ment was overthrown. Queen Liliuokalani, who had 
succeeded her brother, the King, at his death in 1887, 
became dethroned. It all ended in the turning over 
of the Hawaiian Islands to the United States, and when 
the young Princess, Governor Cleghorn's daughter, 
returned from England in 1896 she found her future 
kingdom a thing of the past and the throne of her an- 



cestors lost forever. She soon after died, it is said, of 
a broken heart. Governor Cleghorn, to whom we are 
introduced by Colonel Macfarlane, welcomes us per- 
sonally to his place, which consists of a large and beau- 
tiful park full of cocoanut groves and other palm trees 
and has fine vistas into the surrounding country. After 
having escorted us through the park, the Governor 
asks us into the reception hall, a large lofty structure, 
in which are arranged mementos of the royal Hawaiian 
family, pictures of the Kings and Queens, and among 
them the portrait of Governor Cleghorn's Hawaiian 
wife, who — as I have already said — was a sister of the 
late King and ex-Queen Liliuokalani, together with 
portraits of his deceased young daughter, the late 
Princess and heir apparent. Tea is served by at- 
tractive Japanese maidens, after which we take our 
leave, some of the party to go surf bathing, Mother 
and I to pay a visit to Mrs. Bicherton, an early resi- 
dent of Honolulu, who had expressed the desire to 
show us some hospitality, at the instance of our Japa- 
nese friend, Mrs. Imanishi, of New York, who had 
been brought up in her family. Leaving Mrs. Bicher- 
ton, who with her son is very hearty in her reception, 
we drive to the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, where we have 



arranged to spend the night, having invited our own 
party and the friends we had made at Honolulu to 
meet us at dinner at the hotel. It has been a strenuous 
day for Mother, and while she retires for an hour's 
rest, I attend to some correspondence and arrange for 
the dinner, a table for fourteen being set upon the open 
piazza of the hotel. Our guests soon begin to arrive, 
including — aside from the members of our own party — 
Colonel Macfarlane, Mr. and Mrs. Kishi (the latter 
a neat Japanese who hardly speaks English, but with 
whom as my dinner partner I get along very well), 
Mr. Atkinson, the acting Governor of the Hawaiian 
Islands (the Governor himself being away in the 
United States) ; Mr. Hackfeld, Mr. Shingle, Mr. 
Campbell, and Captain Saunders, of the " Manchuria." 
The dinner, while nothing to boast of from a Lucullian 
point of view, passes off finely, all being in the best 
of humor. Colonel Macfarlane in a neat little speech 
proposes Mother's and my own health, to which I 
respond in a few words, and then almost everyone has 
somebody's health to propose, and much merriment 
prevails. Dinner being over shortly after nine o'clock, 
we repair to the open lobby and there meet a number 
of our co-passengers, some of whom, like the Biddies 



and Mr. Laughlin, have concluded to remain in Hono- 
lulu until the sailing of the succeeding steamer for 
Japan. Meantime we have been informed that the 
managers of the Japanese Country Club have arranged 
to hold a reception and give a garden party in our 
honor later in the evening. We therefore soon get into 
the automobiles to drive to the Japanese Club grounds, 
some three miles from the city, Dr. and Mrs. Biddle 
and Mr. Laughlin joining us upon our invitation. 
Reaching the club, we find its extensive grounds taste- 
fully decorated with Japanese lanterns, etc., and enter- 
ing the clubhouse, we are received by the music of the 
Hawaiian Band, an orchestra of native Hawaiians, 
under the leadership of a German conductor, who ap- 
pears to be quite an original. The band plays a num- 
ber of pieces, part of them in accompaniment to a 
native female soloist who has quite a charming voice; 
the plaintive tunes composing these peculiar airs make 
quite a pathetic impression, sounding as they do like 
the swan song of a once comparatively mighty race, 
now rapidly dwindling and passing away among the 
civilization of the white race, crowding it out of ex- 
istence. The orchestra having finished, we again enter 
the club rooms, where we hold a reception, the Japa- 



nese residents of Honolulu having expressed the desire 
to be presented to us. This over, we are taken to the 
auditorium of the Club, where first a number of Ha- 
waiian girls perform native dances, a sensuous show, 
which is rather unsympathetic. Following this, some 
young, Japanese geisha girls appear who, it is ex- 
plained, are to perform a dance, embodying the sub- 
jugation of Russia by Japan and the reestablishment 
of peace between the two countries. This proves to 
be a very neat and attractive performance, especially 
on the part of the youngest dancer, a little girl only 
nine years old. The dancing being over, we are in- 
vited into the dining hall, where a sumptuous cham- 
pagne supper is served, and when we rise at midnight 
to return to the hotel, we feel that we have passed a 
day full of interest and of novel impressions. Mother, 
Ernst, and I remain this night at the hotel, the other 
members of the party returning to the steamer for the 
night's rest. We rise, splendidly refreshed by a cool 
night's sleep, bright and early the next morning 
(Thursday, March 15th) and are met by the indefat- 
igable Colonel Macfarlane, who informs us that ex- 
Queen Liliuokalani has expressed a desire to meet 
us before we leave Honolulu and would be ready to 



receive us at half past nine o'clock, the steamer's de- 
parture having been set for ten o'clock. Finishing our 
breakfast, the other members of our party come from 
the steamer to join us, and once more the automobiles 
are called into requisition to take us to the residence 
of the ex-Queen. Here we find the stately looking old 
brown lady, surrounded by some of her ladies-in-wait- 
ing, who, we understand, are relatives, also Prince 
David, one of her nephews by marriage, and we are told 
she is thus maintaining the appearance and dignity of 
sovereignty, which in reality has passed away entirely; 
the United States Government is allowing her a small 
competence, with which she can hardly do more than 
keep body and soul together. The ex-Queen continues, 
however, to be much beloved by the natives and re- 
spected by the white population because of her digni- 
fied life, which she dedicates to good work, as far as 
in her power. Queen Liliuokalani expresses much 
satisfaction in meeting us, presenting the ladies of the 
party with enameled coats of arms of the royal house 
in the form of breastpins, honoring Mother by a 
specially nice specimen, and as we have only very 
little time to spare we depart, after the exchange of 
civilities, rapidly driving to the steamer, the departure 



of which we feel we must not delay; it could, however, 
not well have left without us, as we had taken the 
captain with us to the Queen's reception, and held him 
as hostage in order to be certain not to be left behind. 
On the wharf we again find the Hawaiian orchestra, 
which receives us this time with cheerful music, such 
as the " Star-Spangled Banner," " Die Wacht am 
Rhein," etc., and with these strains, with endless cheers 
on the part of our Honolulu friends, who have come to 
bid us adieu, we sail away in high spirits. The morn- 
ing is beautiful, the sky cloudless, the ocean of the deep- 
est blue, and long shall we remember the warmth with 
which we were received and the impressions which we 
enjoyed from our only too short visit to this perfect 
paradise in mid-Pacific. The steamer passes, just after 
leaving its wharf, through waters so perfectly clear 
that one can see almost to the bottom of the sea, and 
it is quite a sight to observe young natives swim for 
a considerable distance alongside the steamer, beg- 
ging for nickels and dimes, after which, when thrown 
to them into the water, they dive and bring up between 
their teeth, without missing in a single instance. A hard 
way to make a living, but, it must be supposed, to these 
natives a perfectly natural one. We are now once more 



on our good boat, preparing for our twelve days' sail 
and settling down accordingly. A number of the pas- 
sengers have remained at Honolulu, but others have 
taken their places and soon are absorbed into the family 
of the cabin passengers. Plans are daily made and car- 
ried out for amusement and entertainment. Dancing 
on deck on some evenings to the tune of a phonograph, 
games and sports, such as sack races, potato races, egg 
races, boxing bouts, Japanese and Chinese baby shows, 
and similar fun are the order of the day, while a very 
successfully arranged progressive bridge game, par- 
ticipated in by the majority of the passengers, creates 
much interest and excitement on one evening. On 
Friday evening, March 23d, a ladies' committee, in- 
cluding Mother, arrange a concert for the benefit of 
the sufferers from the famine in the North of Japan. 
The entertainment comes off most successfully and 
nets, together with the balance of some other small 
funds which had been raised for various purposes dur- 
ing the voyage, a total of about $400, which amount 
Ernst Schiff, who acted as treasurer, is going to turn 
over to the Japanese Famine Committee on our arrival 
at Yokohama. Ernst has made himself very useful in 
general in getting up the various entertainments, and 



being one of the very few young men on board, he has 
been much of a favorite with the ladies. In making 
a record of our doings on board I should not omit to 
mention the visit made with Captain Saunders to the 
different parts of the ship, the cleanly kitchen and 
pantry, the enormous cold-storage and refrigerator 
rooms, the engine room being first inspected, and our 
round then leading us to the Asiatic steerage, where 
Chinese and Japanese, young and old, are housed in 
surprisingly cleanly and well-ventilated quarters. An 
opium den is part of the outfit of this section, as the 
Chinese insist that this provision must be made for 
them, and likewise the starboard deck, which is set 
apart for the Asiatic steerage passengers, is covered 
with gambling tables, mostly roulette, run by Chinese 
croupiers. The captain tells us that efforts have re- 
peatedly been made to do away with this, but that it 
was found that if this was persisted in, it would be- 
come well-nigh impossible to retain the ship's crew 
or to get steerage passengers, gambling being to the 
Chinese almost as necessary as food or air. The most 
unpleasant part of this, however, is that quite a number 
of the cabin passengers participate in this gambling as 
a pastime, without feeling the disgrace they thus bring 



upon themselves. This certainly ought to be strictly 
prohibited by the management of the company. We 
have made excellent runs, which this day (Sunday, 
March 25th) have brought us almost a day ahead of 
our schedule, so that we may expect to land at Yoko- 
hama this afternoon. 

We sight land at about eleven o'clock in the morn- 
ing, and in another five hours we reach the harbor 
of Yokohama, where the steamer casts anchor outside 
of the breakwater. A tedious procedure is gone 
through before the quarantine authorities — all pas- 
sengers, as their names are called from the list, hav- 
ing to pass the physician, a stern-looking young official. 
This done, a number of people come on board from 
shore, among whom we find Mr. Fukai, the private 
secretary of Mr. Takahashi, whom I had already met 
with the latter in New York, and who brings a Mr. 
Kitashima, who, as he explains, has been delegated by 
the Bank of Japan to remain with us during our entire 
stay in Japan, to look after our comfort, to arrange 
our plans, and to make himself generally useful and 
agreeable, two guides having been moreover engaged 
for us, to be under the supervision of Mr. Kitashima. 
The latter, a man of about thirty-five, tells us that he is 



a Harvard graduate, has lived a number of years in 
the United States, and has married an American. This 
all puts us at once at our ease, and makes us feel at 
home from the outset. Mr. Howard, the general 
agent and manager of the Pacific Mail Steamship 
Company, also presents himself and tells us that he 
has been specially requested by his company's home 
officials to do everything he can for us. He places his 
steam launch at our disposal to take us to the shore, 
and going aboard the launch we soon are landed at 
the Yokohama pier. Here, as we mount the carriage, 
Mr. Mori, private secretary of the Finance Minister, 
appears to bid us welcome on the latter's behalf; this 
over, we are driven to the Grand Hotel, a short dis- 
tance only, where we find comfortable rooms reserved 
for us. By the time we get settled dinner time has 
arrived, and we greatly enjoy the meal, the first on 
Japanese soil, though served in entirely foreign style. 
Dinner over, we consult Mr. Kitashima what to do 
with our evening, and he suggests a jinrikisha ride 
through the town, specially to Theater Street, the most 
lively thoroughfare during evening hours. We accept 
the suggestion, and each mounting one of the numer- 
ous jinrikishas in front of the hotel, we get our first 



experience of this vehicle. The ladies are at first a 
bit nervous, as the coolies take hold and in rapid pace 
draw the jinrikishas over the smooth pavement, but 
soon they get used to this novel mode of transportation, 
and in after days all get to prefer it to carriage riding. 
After a short drive we find ourselves on Theater Street, 
where we alight, as the street is crowded with people, 
mostly on foot, with whom we mingle- — our first expe- 
rience of a Japanese town and natives. The shops are 
still open, displaying all kinds of wares in entirely 
open spaces, the shopkeeper generally sitting among 
his goods on his haunches in a complacent attitude. 
After our curiosity has to some extent become satisfied, 
we return to the hotel at a somewhat late hour, and 
retire for our first night's sleep in far-away Japan. 

Monday, March 26th. — The ladies have a desire 
to see something of the more important shops in Yoko- 
hama, and with this in view set out with the guides, 
while I go with Mr. Kitashima to the Yokohama Spe- 
cie Bank to make money arrangements, to instruct how 
my mail from home, which is to come to the bank, is 
to be disposed of, and to await Mr. Takahashi's arrival. 
He had telephoned earlier from Tokio that he was 
coming to Yokohama to meet us, after having first at- 



tended a directors' meeting at the Specie Bank, of which 
he has become the president since his recent return from 
the United States and Europe, where as vice-governor 
of the Bank of Japan he had sojourned almost two 
years in order to negotiate the Japanese Government's 
war loans. It was through this that Mr. Takahashi 
and I have become more intimately acquainted. 
Reaching the Specie Bank, I find Mr. Takahashi al- 
ready there, and he is as glad to meet me again — and 
in his own country — as I am to meet him. After a 
long talk, I leave Mr. Takahashi and the bank, as I had 
promised to join Mother and the other ladies in the 
shopping district. I find them at Samurai Shokai's, 
the largest curio shop in Yokohama, where Mother has 
already selected a lot of things for my approval, which 
is willingly given. We visit together some other shops, 
without, however, making any further acquisitions, 
and then return to the hotel for luncheon. In the after- 
noon Mr. Takahashi calls and discusses plans and ar- 
rangements relative to our stay in Tokio, whither we 
expect to move in a day or two. After Mr. Takahashi 
has left we start for an outing, visit an interesting Bud- 
dhist temple, and then go to the " House of a Hundred 
Steps," a teahouse located upon an eminence reached 




StinM^ /cj? &ActfA% 



£ 



by a long flight of steps. We enjoy a fine view of 
the city and the bay, have tea at the quaint teahouse, 
kept by a shrewd elderly Japanese woman, who speaks 
English and some German, and who shows us a visit- 
ors' register containing the names of many well-known 
foreigners, and in which we likewise inscribe our 
own. Getting away, the jinrikishas, to which we 
have by this time adapted ourselves quite nicely, take 
us through the residential quarter on the bluff, where 
the foreign residents occupy many very pretty villas. 
We visit the Yokohama Nursery, inspect there an 
interesting exhibit of plants and trees, and Mother 
and I select some fine specimens of dwarf trees, which 
we order to be sent to New York. Darkness coming 
on, we return to the hotel, and later, upon invitation 
of the Neustadts, the entire party joins them at din- 
ner at the Oriental Hotel, where we remain the rest 
of the evening. Returning to our own hotel, I find 
a telegram awaiting me from Mr. Fukai, advising me 
that the Emperor is going to receive me in special 
audience day after to-morrow, and will give me a 
luncheon after the audience. This necessitates our 
departure for Tokio to-morrow morning to arrange 
the preparations for this high honor. 




Tuesday, March 2'Jth. — Mother, Ernst, and I, with 
Mr. Kitashima, start early for Yokohama, the rest of 
the party deciding to remain another day to visit the 
nearby Kamakura, intending to join us to-morrow in 
Tokio. Reaching the railway station, we find a special 
car reserved for us in the train, and are joined by Mr. 
Skidmore, counselor of the American Legation. On 
arriving at Tokio we are officially received by the sta- 
tion master, who accompanies us to our carriage, a 
large gathering of people forming queue and making 
respectful expressions. We drive rapidly to the Impe- 
rial Hotel, where we find fairly comfortable apart- 
ments. Mr. Takahashi comes to luncheon and posts 
us as to Japanese etiquette, etc. Shortly after lunch- 
eon, accompanied by Mr. Fukai, I make a round of 
official visits, leaving cards on Mr. Wilson, American 
Charge d'Affaires; Prime Minister Marquis Saionji, 
Minister of the Imperial Household Viscount Tanaka, 
Minister of Finance Sakatani, ex-Prime Minister 
Count Katsura, ex-Finance Minister Baron Sone, 
and also calling at the Bank of Japan, where I am 
welcomed by Mr. Matsuo, the governor of the bank, 
Vice-Governor Takahashi, and some of the directors. 
From there we proceed to the House of Parliament, 



where I am received by Mr. Mori, the secretary of 
the Finance Minister, and taken to the special gallery 
in the House of Peers, where voting is just proceed- 
ing on the " Nationalization of the Railroads," etc. 
A fine body of men these peers, consisting one-fourth 
of members of the Imperial family, one-fourth of men 
appointed by the Emperor for their capacity, one- 
fourth hereditary members, and one-fourth elected 
members. Impressions of old Japan passing away are 
crowding upon one, for some of the men are still 
garbed in typical Japanese dress, thoughtful in their 
demeanor, but the majority in modern foreign attire 
and movement. We leave to return to the hotel, 
where I rejoin Mother and Ernst, who have mean- 
time done some sightseeing, and have also been to 
Parliament. The evening is spent at the American 
Legation, where Mr. Wilson, the Charge d'Affaires, 
with Mrs. Wilson is giving a dinner in our honor, 
and where we meet a number of prominent Japa- 
nese and also some of the American residents, among 
others Baron Komura, ex-Minister of Foreign Af- 
fairs, who concluded the peace at Portsmouth; Mr. 
Takahira, late Minister to the United States; Baron 
Mitsui; Mr. and Mrs. Sonoda, President of the Nobles' 



Bank; Baron and Baroness Kaneko, the latter my table 
companion, who does not speak a word of English; 
Mr. Matsuo, Mr. Takahashi, Mr. Loughlin, second 
secretary of the Legation; Mr. and Mrs. Howard, 
Bishop Harris, and Finance Minister Sakatani. Mr. 
Wilson drinks to our health, welcoming us to Japan, 
and I reply in a few words. Much good will is ex- 
pressed by the Japanese present, most of whom desire 
to do something for us and press us to accept invita- 
tions, some of which we promise to consider. We leave 
late, much pleased with the evening. 

Wednesday, March 28th, is the great gala day for 
me personally, the private audience with the Mikado 
being set for half past eleven o'clock, luncheon to be 
served right after the audience. I am told it is the 
first time that the Emperor has invited a foreign pri- 
vate citizen to a repast at the palace, heretofore only 
foreign Princes having been thus honored. The 
Finance Minister, Mr. Sakatani, is to be my sponsor 
and to take me to the palace for the audience. He 
calls at the hotel at eleven o'clock, and we drive direct 
to the palace. The palace of the Emperor is a mod- 
ern structure, the old palace having been partly burned 
about thirty years ago. This new palace was fin- 



ished about fifteen years ago. It is in its interior 
arrangements and appointments a combination of 
Japanese and Western construction and decoration. 
Long, wide halls lead to the different state rooms. 
We are first shown into a large reception room, where 
we are received by Mr. Nagazaki, the Master of Cere- 
monies, who speaks English fluently, and who informs 
the Minister of Finance that the Emperor will receive 
me alone. He leaves us and returns shortly, stating 
to me that he has been commanded by his Majesty to 
invest me with the insignias of the Order of the Rising 
Sun, which the Emperor has graciously condescended 
to bestow upon me. Accordingly he divests me of the 
Star of the Second Order of the Sacred Treasure, 
which I had received the previous year, and replaces 
it by the two decorations, composing the second class 
of the Order of the Rising Sun. Thereupon I am 
taken through long halls into a smaller reception room, 
where the Emperor receives me standing. He is 
dressed in military house uniform (short jacket and 
koppi), also wearing the order of the Rising Sun and 
a number of medals. Mr. Nagazaki is at his side as 
interpreter. The Emperor extends his hand and bids 
me welcome to Japan, saying that he has heard of the 



important assistance I have given the nation at a criti- 
cal time, and that he is pleased to have an opportunity 
to thank me in person for it. I reply that I feel my 
services have been overestimated, but from the start 
my associates and I, believing in the righteousness of 
the cause of Japan, when we had the opportunity prac- 
tically to prove our sympathy, gladly embraced it. 
Whatever I have done, I continued, has been amply 
rewarded by his Majesty's graciousness in first bestow- 
ing upon me the Second Order of the Sacred Treasure, 
then this day the Order of the Rising Sun, and more 
than anything else by so cordially and kindly receiving 
me in private audience. The Emperor thanks me for 
these expressions and says he will meet me shortly at 
his luncheon table. I leave and am taken to the pri- 
vate dining room, where I find some nine gentlemen 
standing behind their chairs around the table, among 
others Baron Kaneko, Mr. Sakatani, Mr. Takahashi, 
Mr. Matsuo, and a son-in-law of Marquis Ito. Shortly 
the Emperor appears with three aides - de - camp — 
Princes, as I am told — Mr. Nagazaki, and the Viscount 
Tanaka, Minister of the Imperial Household. The 
Emperor sits down between his aides-de-camp, Vis- 
count Tanaka opposite the Emperor, and I am placed 








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IMPERIAL INVITATION TO LUNCHEON 



to the right of the minister, Baron Kaneko sitting to 
my own right. A splendid luncheon is served, entirely 
in foreign style, the table being likewise decorated in 
the usual foreign manner. The Emperor appears in 
excellent appetite and humor, conversing freely, telling 
of some pleasant occurrences in the early years of his 
reign. The luncheon nearing its conclusion (after hav- 
ing lasted over an hour), I ask Baron Kaneko whether 
it would be proper for me to propose the Emperor's 
health. He sends word to Mr. Nagazaki to inquire, 
who in turn makes inquiry from the Viscount Tanaka, 
and the latter being undecided in his answer, Mr. 
Nagazaki approaches the Emperor, who replies that 
he would be glad to have me do so. I thereupon rise, 
and applying to the Emperor the judgment of posterity 
of our beloved George Washington, " first in war, first 
in peace, first in the hearts of his countrymen," I drink 
to his health, wishing him a long life, his own happi- 
ness, the happiness of his family, of a people who love 
him, and of a world which respects him. The toast is 
drunk and the Emperor lifts his glass, expressing ac- 
knowledgment, and proposes my own health, which 
is likewise drunk by all rising. The Emperor soon 
rises from the table and commands me again before 



him, saying that he hopes we will have pleasant days 
during our stay in Japan, and that his people will be 
good and agreeable hosts. I again thank him for the 
honor he has shown me, and he thereupon departs 
with his aides-de-camp. The other gentlemen gather 
around me and heartily congratulate me upon my de- 
meanor and upon what I had said, which evidently had 
much impressed the Emperor, whom they had never 
before known to be so gracious to one a stranger to 
him. I am then shown through the palace and depart 
at about two o'clock, having been in the palace about 
two and a half hours. Returning to the hotel, I find 
the entire party, the Budges and Neustadts having 
meantime arrived from Yokohama, eagerly awaiting 
my return and willing to learn of my experience, 
which 1 have to tell them in detail. Having had to 
appear at the audience in evening dress, I change and 
accompany Mother and the others to Asaka Park, an 
apparently very popular pleasure ground, crowded 
with people of the lower class, who evidently find 
much amusement in the different popular shows going 
on within the park, which also contains some popular 
temples, which we visit. We return to the hotel after 
five o'clock and soon prepare for the dinner at Minis- 



ter of Finance Sakatani's official residence, to be given 
in our honor, at half past seven o'clock. Reaching 
there in due time, we find a company of about thirty 
guests, principally high dignitaries, among whom we 
meet the Marquis Saionji, the Prime Minister, and 
most of the guests who were at Mr. Wilson's the even- 
ing before. I am asked to take Mrs. Chinda (wife 
of the Vice-Minister of Foreign Affairs) to dinner 
and find myself seated between her and Mrs. Sakatani, 
a sweet-looking Japanese lady, the wife of the Finance 
Minister, who is in native dress. Both my lady 
neighbors speak some English and I get along very 
nicely. Mother is seated to the right of the host, with 
Mr. Wilson on her other side. The dinner is entirely 
in foreign style, and at its close the Finance Minister 
rises and in a Japanese address, which is afterwards 
repeated in English by his secretary, welcomes us as 
follows: 
Your Excellencies, Ladies and Gentlemen: 

It is a source of great pleasure to me that you have 
favored me with your company at the dinner given in 
honor of Mr. and Mrs. Schiff and their party, the most 
distinguished guests we have ever had from the United 
States of America. 



Our friendship with Mr. Schiff began with the 
opening of the war which has just been closed, though 
it is only last evening that we had the pleasure of seeing 
him face to face. 

In the spring of IQ04 our Government, feeling the 
need of foreign capital in financing the war, sent Mr. 
Takahashi, vice-president of the Nippon Ginko, to 
London to negotiate a loan with foreign capitalists, who 
received the scheme with full sympathy and favor. 

The future aspect of the war, however, was vague 
and dark in the eyes of everybody, and it was a matter 
of great difficulty to float a loan of such a big amount at 
a time as we expected. It was just then that our finan- 
cial agent found a great friend in need in the person 
of one of the ablest American bankers of world-wide 
connections, who came forward to lend a hand to the 
English group to carry out the programme to a suc- 
cessful issue. Of course I refer to the principal guest 
of this evening. 

Mr. Schiff in a single conversation with Mr. Taka- 
hashi offered to underwrite single-handed a half of 
what we wanted, and our first foreign loan of ten 
million pounds was floated in the market in England 
and America with brilliant success. This favor was 



constantly shown in the second and third issues and 
especially in the fourth issue when the political situa- 
tion of the belligerent powers was such as no one could 
tell whether they would go on fighting or come to 
peace and when the condition of the money market was 
anything but favorable to our floating a loan. 

Lastly , he made a great effort and spared no cost or 
pain in carrying out the fifth issue of the loan last 
winter and subscribed a large part of it. The amount 
of our loan subscribed by Mr. Schiff from the first to 
the fifth issue arrives at a grand total of £JQ,2^0,000. 

Thus I have described, though in a rough and short 
way, the merit of the services he has rendered to this 
country during the war. Now I have to thank him for 
these invaluable services. But here my words fail to 
express our heartfelt gratitude toward him, for this 
gratitude is not only mine, nor only of the Govern- 
ment, but that of the nation at large, and I have not 
language suitable enough to give utterance to the 
national feeling of thankfulness to a full extent. 

The lords and gentlemen here present form a group 
of personages who, during the war, served the country 
in working the machine of war finance, some as the 
prominent members of the cabinet, some as the leaders 



of the great party, some as representatives of the Em- 
pire, and others as leading members of the financial 
circle. So it is quite natural that they have all longed 
and longed for an opportunity to see and thank in 
person our friend who has been so serviceable to the 
country during the war. Now that opportunity has 
arrived and our friend is among us to talk and dine 
together at the same table to our full satisfaction. That 
satisfaction I can read in the face of every person at 
the table, and let me say, to do justice to the host it will 
amply make up the imperfect accommodation of this 
evening for which I should have to apologize. 

It is my earnest wish that Mr. Schiff and his party 
will stay in this country as long as they can. But being 
the youngest country in the new civilization they will 
feel the lack of accommodation and comfort in making 
a trip all around this country, making observations and 
seeing the sights. Yet we will do our best to afford 
them any convenience in our power to make them as 
comfortable as we can so as to induce them to prolong 
their stay here as long as possible and give them ample 
time for their observations in every nook and corner 
and give us many opportunities to show our gratitude 
toward him. 



Mr. Schiff, I hope you will carry back with you the 
impression of our heartfelt reception and sincere feel- 
ing toward you, and will leave behind you frank ad- 
vices and suggestions of improvements of which we 
may avail ourselves to increase the national efficiency 
leading to the further cooperation and closer intimacy 
between the two friendly powers and also resulting in 
a speedy development in industrial and commercial 
relations in China and Corea. 

Your Excellencies, Ladies and Gentlemen, before 
I sit down allow me to propose the toast for Mr. and 
Mrs. Schiff and their excellent party and ask you to 
join me by raising your glass and drinking their health. 

To this I reply in appropriate words and we soon 
thereafter find ourselves in the social rooms in pleasant 
conversation with the other guests, most of whom speak 
English or French. The hours pass quickly, and we 
return to the hotel all greatly impressed and pleased 
with the hospitality we have received. 

Thursday, March 2Qth. — The day is gray, but our 
spirits are rosy, and at about eleven o'clock all except 
myself start for Ugeno Park. I with Mr. Kitashima 
have first to make some calls, especially to inscribe my 



name at the palace of the Prince Imperial, dt Prince 
Fushimi, ami of Prince [shamina, the latter the two 
aides de camp of the Emperor, whom 1 met at the 
Imperial luncheon the previous day. Having done 

this, 1 pay a visit to Huron Kaneko at his residence, 
have a short chat with him, and then drive to Ugeno 
Park to join the rest of the party at a restaurant there, 
where we take a good Inneheon in occidental style. 
Alter Inneheon we visit an interesting exhibition of 

paintings ami the museum, both located in the park, 

and with Krnst I return to the hotel on toot, the rest 
of the party driving home. In the evening the Di- 
rectors of the Hank of Japan entertain ns at dinner at 
the Nobles' Club, about titty guests, including possi- 
blv fifteen ladies, being present, some of whom, includ- 
ing the Prime Minister, Marquis Saionji, as well as 
most all the other ministers, the leading bankers and 
merchants, we had already met the previous evening 
at the dinner ot the Minister of Finance, 1 am seated 
between Mrs. Wilson and Mrs. Chinda, Mother be- 
tween the Prime Minister, the Marquis Saionji, and 
the Viscount Tanaka, the Minister of the Imperial 
Household. Mr. Takahashi aets as host Mr. Matsno, 
the president of the Hank of Japan, having been 



taken ill — and toward the close of the dinner makes 

the following address: 

Your Excellencies, Ladies and Gentlemen: 

J thank you on behalf of Governor Matsuo and 
myself for favoring us with your esteemed presence 
this evening. It is, indeed, a great pleasure to us to 
have the opportunity of welcoming Mr. and Mrs. 
Schiff and their party in our own country and espe- 
cially in this gathering of distinguished guests. Very 
unfortunately , and to my great regret no less than his, 
Mr. Matsuo is prevented from being present here on 
account of the bad cold from which he is suffering 
since last night, and he desires me to ask your pardon 
for not being able to receive you personally this 
evening. 

Although some of you may have met Mr. Schiff for 
the first time this evening, his firm has been well known 
to you as the principal issuers of the Japanese loans in 
America. The war of IQ04S was one of the most 
critical events in the annals of our country, and it 
scarcely needs recalling that the supply of funds was 
of extreme importance in carrying on the now happily 
ended conflict. The fact that no want was felt in 
respect of the sinews of this great war, and that it 



was brought to a successful conclusion without causing 
much disturbance in the economic and financial condi- 
tions of the country, was owing to the favorable re- 
sponse given to the successive issues abroad more than 
to any other single cause. This was especially the case 
in regard to the maintenance of specie payments, for 
which the Bank of Japan is most directly responsible. 
In fact, the gold reserve of the bank remained on a 
firm basis throughout the war, mainly because it was 
constantly replenished by the proceeds of external 
loans. Now, it was an exceedingly fortunate circum- 
stance that these loans were issued from the outset in 
the United States as well as in England. The financial 
support given by the American people was a material 
expression of their warm sympathy toward our nation. 
We are happy, therefore, to express our gratitude to 
the American people upon the present occasion of 
Mr. Schiff's visit. But considering the fact that no 
Japanese loan had previously been issued in America, 
the remarkable success that attended each issue there 
during the past two years must be attributed, in addi- 
tion to the sympathy of the American people, to the 
efforts of the influential firm of Messrs. Kuhn, Loeb 
& Co. and their associates who have such a large fol- 



lowing among the American public. Our gratitude 
is, therefore, due to the firm of which Mr. Schiff is 
the senior partner. But in speaking of the factors con- 
ducing to the success of the loans, there is one more 
aspect which must be specially emphasized. I mean 
the prompt decision of Mr. Schiff, who happened to 
be in London when the negotiations for the first six per 
cent loan were going on, not only opened the way for 
having the loan issued in America, but the American 
participation at the very opportune moment enhanced 
the general popularity of Japanese securities and had 
beneficial effects upon all the successive issues. More- 
over, Mr. Schiff rendered me valuable assistance in 
opening the German negotiations for Japanese loans. 
It was my good fortune to become thus acquainted with 
Mr. Schiff, and having always felt it a pleasant duty 
to deal with him, I warmly appreciate his personality 
as an important factor in bringing about the success 
of the loans. 

Such being Mr. Schiff's relation with the finance 
of our country during the war, we are heartily glad 
now to welcome him together with Mrs. Schiff and 
their party. Now, Mr. and Mrs. Schiff, and ladies 
and gentlemen of the party, I wish to say to you par- 



ticularly that we shall always be ready to do whatever 
we can to make your stay both interesting and com- 
fortable. As the intercourse between you and the im- 
portant people of this country becomes more intimate, 
so, we hope, the economic relation between the United 
States and Japan will become closer in the future. 

Your Excellencies, ladies and gentlemen, before sit- 
ting down, I ask you to join me in drinking the health 
of Mr. and Mrs. Schiff and their party. 

March 2Qth. The Nobles' Club. 

In responding, I tell some appropriate anecdote, 
and then becoming serious I sound a note of advice 
against the danger of overburdening the country with 
new commitments, dwelling particularly upon the 
fact that Japan has no more valuable asset than the 
high credit it has again attained in the markets of the 
world and which should be scrupulously guarded. 
Again the evening passes most pleasantly, and we find 
ourselves at our hotel discussing the nice impressions 
we have received. 

Friday, March JOth, is a rainy day and we have to 
give up a water and fishing party which we expected 
to undertake for the day. Instead the ladies go shop- 



ping, Mother buying some fine Japanese lacquer work 
and curios. We take luncheon at the hotel; I attend 
to some correspondence, while Mother and the party 
go to a Japanese theater, and afterwards I go to a con- 
ference with the Finance Minister, who wishes to dis- 
cuss the general financial situation. In the evening 
Carl Scheuer, of New York, and his son quietly dine 
with us and our party at the hotel, and, as it is still 
raining, we remain indoors for the balance of the 
evening. 

Saturday, March 3 1st. — We leave the hotel at about 
ten o'clock to visit the agency of the Japanese Culture 
Pearls establishment, where " man helps nature " to 
produce the real deep-sea pearl. The establishment 
itself is somewhere on the inland sea, where, by a proc- 
ess of inserting the small seed pearl into the breeding 
shell and replanting the latter upon the sea banks for 
a period of about four years, pearls of various, but not 
very large, sizes are grown, which, except upon the 
side, where the pearl has been attached to the shell, are 
apparently equal in luster and other qualities to the 
finest India pearls. We buy several specimens at a 
moderate price. We then proceed to the Commercial 
Museum — something like the well-known German 



" Gewerbe-Ausstellung " — where the production of 
almost every Japanese industry can be found, with 
name of maker, description, and price, a very interest- 
ing and useful institution. Leaving there, we drive to 
Shiba Park, with its beautiful temple about three 
hundred years old, where a number of Shoguns are 
buried, one of the most decorative temples in Tokio, 
rich in lacquer and other decorative woodwork. The 
temple courts and the whole surroundings are like- 
wise most attractive and interesting, and we depart 
much gratified; I, with Neustadt and Budge, return- 
ing to the hotel on foot, the weather being beautiful. 
In the afternoon we take a fine drive along the moat 
surrounding the Imperial palace and then to the Sho- 
kousha, the Shinto temple, to which the Emperor 
comes annually to pray for the fallen soldiers; a simple 
but impressive interior — no decorative art being em- 
ployed or images being seen in Shinto temples. Near 
by »s the Army and Navy Museum, containing inter- 
esting trophies of the Japanese-Chinese war and also 
of the Japanese-Russian War, as well as many im- 
pressive pictures of the war. We find the museum 
crowded, especially with young people. We return 
through a fine residential quarter, containing a number 



of palaces surrounded by fine private parks of various 
royal Princes, and reach the hotel in the late afternoon. 
The evening is spent at the Maple Club, a Japanese 
club to which is attached the best Japanese teahouse 
restaurant in Tokio. We dine there in pure Japanese 
style, and while neat, giggling dancing girls wait upon 
us, very attentive to our wants, other girls, to the ac- 
companiment of native music, present a number of 
pantomime native dances in a most skillful and in- 
teresting manner. The dinner, consisting of any num- 
ber of small dishes, mostly raw and cooked fish, stewed 
bamboo, and other national dishes, is washed down 
with saki, the native beverage. All are much pleased 
with the enjoyable but entirely decent actions of the 
waiting and dancing girls, and it is late when we re- 
turn to the hotel in high spirits. 

Sunday, April 1st. — We leave the hotel at nine in 
the morning to drive to the academy of Professor 
Kano, the most celebrated teacher of inado, which is 
similar to, but has greatly succeeded, the well-known 
game of jiu jitsu. Here we stay almost one hour and 
a half, the professor explaining all the details and 
theories of the game by practical demonstration with 
some of his masters and pupils. Much interested, we 



have to depart to reach Mr. Takahashi's residence in 
time for luncheon. Mr. Takahashi lives in pure Japa- 
nese style in a typical Japanese house, neither his wife 
nor his children speaking anything but their own lan- 
guage. He has invited some English-speaking friends, 
and we get on very nicely. He shows us all over his 
house, his fine art treasures, etc., and we sit down 
Japanese-wise on low cushions to partake of a Japanese 
meal, consisting entirely of strange little dishes — now 
already known to us — served by a little maid in front 
of each person, and we rise after about an hour, all 
rather stiff, but pleasantly entertained. Young Miss 
Takahashi, a really sweet maiden of fifteen, and her 
teacher give us some music on an instrument looking 
something like a large harp, and then the young lady 
plays the piano — all without notes, Japanese music 
being taught by the ear only. We depart at about 
three o'clock, Mother, Ernst, and I to pay two visits 
(one to the Marchioness Oyama, who had called on 
Mother), and return to the hotel toward six o'clock. 
Distances are enormous, and to make calls is a time- 
consuming undertaking. By appointment Mr. Taka- 
hashi comes to the hotel at six o'clock, and I have a 
longer conference with him on financial matters, while 



-a 





Co<^i^<2 



Mother examines some old prints which a dealer has 
brought her. We stay home for the evening meal and 
retire after dinner to our rooms to attend to some cor- 
respondence, etc., and to get things in order for our 
departure for Miyanoshita, planned for 

Monday, April 2d. — We attend Monday morning 
to some shopping and other matters, take an early 
luncheon, and leave in the early afternoon for Miyano- 
shita upon the special train placed at our disposal by 
the Government. It is composed of a comfortable first- 
class car, in which the seats are arranged lengthwise 
(like in our elevated roads), a second-class car for the 
servants and guides, and a baggage car, and travels 
through without stopping. I leave the train on a sta- 
tion near Yokohama, to which latter city I proceed by 
jinrikisha (half an hour) to attend in the evening a 
banquet given by the American-Asiatic Society to the 
Viscount Aoki, the new Ambassador to the United 
States, who is about to leave for his post, and to which 
banquet I have been invited as a guest of honor. 
Reaching Yokohama at about four o'clock, I repair 
to the Grand Hotel, call upon Mrs. Howard (the wife 
of the agent of the Pacific Mail) and later upon Mr. 
Howard at his office, and still later find myself at the 



Oriental Hotel, where the banquet is being given. 
About forty members of the American-Asiatie Society 
are present, mostly American merchants of a fine type. 
Mr. Howard presides, the guests of honor being the 
Viscount Aoki, Mr. Wilson, our Charge d'Affaires; 
Secretary of the Legation Laughlin, the Mayor of 
Yokohama, a fine Japanese gentleman — a Yale gradu- 
ate; Consul-General Miller, Baron Kaneko, Mr. Den- 
nison, and myself. Again I am called upon to say 
a few words in response to the drinking to my health. 
I emphasize that I am particularly happy to be pres- 
ent upon this occasion, for, being a German by birth, 
1 have the same blood in my veins as the Viscount- 
ess Aoki and her children — a proud American by 
choice and adoption, I feel gratified at having the 
opportunity to wish the new Ambassador Godspeed, 
and a Japanese " by investment," I cannot but feel glad 
to be honored by the American-Asiatic Association 
upon my first visit to this land of a great past and a 
great future. I also speak of the many things we have 
in common with this old young nation, which, like the 
United States, preaches the "open door" abroad and 
practices protection at home — which, like ourselves, 
though under the sway of an enlightened, beloved chief, 



enjoys a government by the people, of the people, for 
the people, and like ourselves is an advocate of the 
" square deal." My remarks are much applauded and 
after the banquet all present ask to be introduced to 
me. I return to the hotel late and ask to be called 
early, for I intend to leave at eight o'clock in the morn- 
ing to join Mother and the party at Miyanoshita, 
from where I have meantime received a telegram from 
dear Mother advising me of her safe arrival and tell- 
ing me how pleasant a mountain resort it appears to be. 
Tuesday, April 3d. — I rise early to take the eight 
o'clock train from Yokohama, to which I find a private 
car attached for my personal use. This attention on 
the part of the railway is the more appreciated as in 
Japan everybody appears to be on the move, the rail- 
way trains being always overcrowded. After two 
hours' ride (accompanied by one of our guides) we 
reach Kozu, where an electric car is taken, which runs 
into the mountain region. It being a national holiday 
— the anniversary of the birth of the first Emperor 
some thousands of years ago — the villages along the 
trolley line (and these almost adjoin one another) are 
decorated in gay bunting, and are full of processions, 
mostly formed by the young men of the village who, 



dressed in white attire, carry holy shrines upon their 
shoulders, and half intoxicated by possibly religious 
enthusiasm, but more probably by said, swing to and 
fro in the narrow streets and make it impossible for the 
car to pass until they are pushed aside forcibly and 
with much difficulty by the elder populace, the latter 
being evidently fearful of a collision. This repeats it- 
self in several villages, until we reach another larger 
village, where the young fellows in great number, car- 
rying the shrine, absolutely refuse to move from the 
tracks. Three policemen appear, but can do nothing 
against the mob. The police captain draws his sword, 
but is promptly set upon by the crowd, terribly beaten, 
and taken away (bleeding all over) in a jinrikisha. 
The other two men are likewise badly handled, but in 
the excitement the car is enabled to move on. I stop 
on the way at police headquarters and leave thirty yen 
for the man who had so courageously tried to assist 
the movement of our car, but am later informed that 
the men, having only performed their duty, cannot 
accept any special compensation. This is character- 
istic of everything governmental in Japan; loyalty in 
the strict performance of each and every duty appears 
self-understood and no one expects even commenda- 



tion for duty ever so well performed. After this inci- 
dent, we soon reach the end of the electric line at 
Umoto, where jinrikishas await us to take us farther 
to Miyanoshita, a distance of about four miles, and at 
a height of 1,300 feet. I prefer, however, to go on 
foot, the mountain scenery being beautiful, and am met 
halfway up by Ernst Schiff, who has come to meet me 
on the road. We walk up briskly and reach the Hotel 
Fujiya after about one and a half hours' ascent, in time 
for luncheon, rejoiced to be again united with Mother 
and the others of our party. In the afternoon we 
begin exploring the beautiful mountain region, which 
equals the Tyrol in grandeur and perfect climate, the 
atmosphere being particularly dry and bracing. Mrs. 
Budge in a kind of Sedan chair, carried by four 
coolies, the others on foot — except Mother, who has 
preferred to remain home — we start out briskly up a 
mountain, then alongside it, on a bridle path, until we 
reach a neat teahouse about 500 feet farther up. Here 
we rest and take tea, and then a short cut home is 
found, rather steep, on which friend Budge changes 
with his wife and takes to the chair, rather nervous 
because of the somewhat wild descent. We reach the 
hotel again shortly after five o'clock, having marched 



for two hours. Having thus had three and a half 
hours' good walking, I reward myself with a bath in 
the natural hot water for which this region is famous 
— the water coming from the spring at 180 is cooled 
for bathing purposes according to requirement. A 
short rest after the delicious bath brings the dinner 
hour near and we unite in a most cozy dining room 
and get a splendid dinner in occidental style, but 
waited upon by a bevy of dainty English-speaking 
Japanese girls, the proprietor himself being a Japanese. 
The hotel is kept in fine style, simple and clean, and 
makes the impression of a Swiss chalet, the guests all 
being Europeans and Americans. After dinner bridge 
is indulged in, in which I join, and we retire much 
pleased to have come to so beautiful a spot for a few 
days' recreation. 

Wednesday, April 4th. — A glorious, bright, and 
bracing morning, a blue sky, and everybody in buoyant 
spirits. Big things are planned: a tour to the cele- 
brated Lake Hakone, where we are promised a first 
view of Fujiyama, the clouded sky and misty atmos- 
phere having thus far obscured its appearance. Our 
ladies, however, strike against the two and a half hours' 
distance, nor do Sedan chairs tempt them; even friend 



Budge thinks yesterday's experience sufficient. So 
Neustadt, Ernst, and I, accompanied by Mr. and Mrs. 
Gordon, start out briskly at 9.30 o'clock. Mr. Gordon 
and Ernst before long take to horses, which they have 
brought along, Mrs. Gordon to a Sedan chair. Neu- 
stadt and I save the honor of the party and continue 
the ascent on foot. The road is good and we get on 
swimmingly. The mountain scenery is again gran- 
diose, high rocky peaks looking down on narrow val- 
leys. We get a first view of the lake, after a two hours' 
march, and another half an hour brings us to its shores. 
As we suddenly turn a corner on the shore, Fujiyama 
presents itself in all its grandeur, about twenty-five 
miles distant. The mountain is entirely covered with 
snow, and with the clear blue sky above, Lake Hakone 
at its feet, and surrounded by rocky peaks, the impres- 
sion is imposing. We enter a pleasant Japanese inn, 
situated in front of the lake, and from its glass-inclosed 
piazza we get a fine view of the entire scenery. The 
guides have brought a tasty luncheon from our hotel, 
to which, with an appetite stimulated by the rare air 
and the good march, we do entire justice. The lake 
being somewhat rough, we do not take to boats, as we 
had contemplated, but rather walk a bit farther to the 




Imperial Villa, a nice structure, which is, however, 
closed, and we continue to the old village of Hakone, 
a picturesque-looking group of old Japanese houses. 
From here we turn back and return by the road we 
have come, taking in on the way an old Buddha carved 
into the rock, situated in a grove upon one of the 
mountainsides, and said to be over one thousand years 
old. Numerous small stone Buddhas surround the 
larger one, the road being the old highway between 
Tokio and the south, and these images having been 
placed there to be worshiped by the Daimios upon 
their travels. We reach the hotel at four o'clock, hav- 
ing been away six and a half hours, of which friend 
Neustadt and I were fully five hours on our feet. 
Neither of us feels the worse for this; indeed, 1 am as 
fresh as when we started. Before dinner 1 take an- 
other of the delicious hot baths, and as 1 write this, 
near midnight, I feel in fine form, not in the least 
fatigued by the day's exertion. 

Thursday, April .•>"///. — To our deep regret, this is 
our day of parting from this enchanting spot, our en- 
gagements at 'Tokio compelling us to return thither. 
Immediately after breakfast Mother and 1 mount a 
hill behind the hotel from where we get a good view 



of the upper part of Fujiyama, Mother being much 
enchanted with the first impression of the renowned 
mountain. Coming back to the hotel, some purchases 
Mother made, while I was away yesterday to Lake 
Hakone, subject to my final approval, are gone over 
and I make a bargain with the dealer. The unpleas- 
ant part in buying is that one is always taken in as far 
as price is concerned, for whatever offer one makes 
is accepted and is, therefore, probably too high. A 
deputy from the Governor of the province is an- 
nounced, who has been sent personally to hand me a 
letter from the Governor expressing his deep regret at 
the occurrence on Tuesday, when my car was blocked 
by the young roughs and the police assaulted, the Gov- 
ernor assuring me that the demonstration was against 
the tramway company alone and in no way anti- 
foreign — which I already was aware of. Luncheon — 
or rather Tiffin, as they say here — having been taken, 
we leave charming Miyanoshita and its pleasant hotel 
with much regret, Mrs. Neustadt, Budge, and I on 
foot, the others by jinrikisha. After a good hour's 
walk we reach Umoto, where the special tramcar 
awaits us. This time we are placed under " Polizei- 
aufsicht," a high police official accompanying us to 



Kozu, the railroad station, about an hour's distance, 
which we reach without any incident. The weather 
is beautiful, and as the atmosphere is very clear, we 
get repeatedly on the way fine views of Fujiyama. In 
Kozu our special train is ready for us and starts 
promptly for Tokio, where we arrive at about 4.30 
o'clock, making the entire journey in three and three- 
quarters hours, instead of the five and a half hours it 
ordinarily takes. We have tea and a short rest at the 
hotel before we prepare to go to Baron Kaneko's 
house, where we are invited to dinner. The Baron 
lives in a neat but not large Japanese house, which 
he has arranged partly in occidental style, in some 
rooms chairs and carpets taking the place of cushions 
and matting. Baroness Kaneko, her two daughters 
— girls of probably seventeen and eighteen years — and 
her little boy of ten years, do not speak English, and it 
makes a somewhat odd impression to converse with the 
Baron in fluent English and to be unable to say a word 
to the members of his family. But somehow we get on 
very well, Mr. Sakai, Baron Kaneko's secretary, whom 
we had already met in New York, being present at 
the dinner and acting as interpreter. The dinner is in 
foreign style and very good. After dinner we join the 



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INVITATION TO BALL GIVEN BY 
MARQUIS AND MARCHIONESS NABESHIMA 



Baron for a short while in his cozy study, and soon 
depart to go to the ball given by the Marquis and 
Marchioness Nibashima in honor of Prince Fernando 
of Udine, who has recently arrived in charge of an 
Italian man-of-war. The Nibashimas belong to the 
high nobility; their palace is entirely occidental and 
might be situated in any European capital. We arrive 
somewhat late, dancing having already begun, but we 
are soon in the crowd and are taken charge of by a 
number of our Japanese friends, principally by the 
Sonodas, the Sagadas, and others, whom we have met 
before. Mr. Nagazaki, the Imperial Master of Cere- 
monies, recognizes me and asks to be presented to 
Mother, and thereupon presents us to the lady of the 
house, a fat, middle-aged Japanese, who, with Mr. 
Nagazaki, takes us to Prince Fernando, a fine-looking 
young man, who sits between two Imperial Princesses, 
to whom we are likewise presented, but who are rather 
condescending. The whole diplomatic corps being 
there, we soon discover Mr. and Mrs. Wilson, with 
whom we have a pleasant chat, and are presented to 
a lot of people, many of the Japanese nobility coming 
to ask to be presented to us; almost all of these speak 
good English. We also meet the Mayor of Tokio and 



his wife, who is half English. Both seem to wish to 
be very amiable. Having had somewhat of a full day 
and the ladies being fatigued, we soon leave the inter- 
esting scene and return to the hotel. 

Friday, April Oth, we decide upon for a rest. The 
ladies go on a shopping tour and take a drive into 
one of the parks, which are just beginning to put on 
their most beautiful cherry-blossom dress, the trees 
having sprung into bloom almost overnight. It is 
an incomparable impression to see the entire town 
covered with cherry blossoms, a delicate pink every- 
where you look, a deep blue sky above, and all nature 
rejoicing in her enchanting spring dress. While the 
ladies have gone on their errands, I make a number 
of calls in the suburbs, and thus get likewise a fine 
drive under rows and rows of cherry trees covered 
with the beautiful blossom. We all take luncheon 
together at the hotel, and afterwards, following an 
invitation of the Red Cross officers, Mother, Budge, 
and I pay a visit to the Red Cross Hospital, the larg- 
est hospital in Japan. During the war it took charge 
of all the wounded that were brought to Tokio, send- 
ing, moreover, a staff of 3,500 nurses to the front. We 
are received at the portal of the hospital by Baron 



Osawa, the Vice-President, his secretary, who is a 
Columbia graduate, and a number of officers and 
physicians; are first shown through the Administra- 
tion Building and then through the rooms and wards, 
which latter are only one story high and most prac- 
tically arranged. Then we are taken, accompanied 
by several military surgeons, to the adjoining hospital 
barracks, in which one thousand soldiers are still under 
treatment. Everything is admirably clean and the pa- 
tients are evidently entirely contented. We return to 
the Administration Building and have tea with the 
officers, returning to the hotel in the late afternoon, 
to enjoy a quiet dinner and some reading before we 
retire. 

Saturday, April Jth. — We receive an early call 
from Mr. Matsuo, the Governor of the Bank of Japan, 
who expresses his delight at the fine weather, which 
favors the garden party he and Mr. Takahashi have 
arranged for the afternoon. On my expressing my 
surprise and our gratification at the manifold cour- 
tesies offered us by the Bank of Japan in particular, 
he tells me we probably are hardly aware of the im- 
portance of the service my associates and I have ren- 
dered the bank and the country in having had the 



courage, at so critical a period, to finance the first 
Japanese war loan. He explains that the gold re- 
serve of the bank had at the time of the first loan been 
rapidly dwindling away, and that he and his directors 
saw before them the abyss of a forced paper currency. 
It was from this danger, which threatened the bank 
and the country in May, 1904, we had saved them, 
and hence their deep gratitude. Mr. Matsuo depart- 
ing, I go to pay a visit to Count Matsukada, one of 
the Elder Statesmen, who has expressed a desire to 
meet me and with whom I spend an interesting half 
hour; he was Finance Minister a number of years ago 
and is the father of the Japanese gold standard; he 
is considered one of the most able and conserva- 
tive financiers of the Empire. I had promised Mr. 
Wilson, our Charge d'Affaires, to have a quiet talk 
with him, on general conditions, at the legation. I 
go there from Count Matsukada's. Mr. Wilson gives 
me some interesting inside history concerning Japa- 
nese politics, and, upon his invitation, I remain for 
luncheon en famille with himself and Mrs. Wilson, 
a genial young woman, married only two years. Re- 
turning to the hotel shortly after two o'clock, I find 
the entire party waiting for me to go to the garden 



party, which the Bank of Japan has arranged in our 
honor, at the Arsenal Gardens. These gardens are 
most unique, such as you see sometimes in Japanese 
illustrations. It is an old park, formerly belonging 
to one of the Daimios and now the property of the 
Government. Received there by Mr. Matsuo, Mr. 
Takahashi, and the directors of the bank, we find a 
large company, probably from 300 to 400 persons, 
assembled, consisting mostly of the leading bankers 
and some of the dignitaries of the capital with their 
wives and daughters, among others Marshal Oyama, 
with his daughter, a sweet young lady, who speaks 
English fluently, though she has never been abroad. 
It is a wonderful and bewitching picture, this splendid 
park, with its old trees, lakes spanned by little bridges, 
with pagodas and shrines, and between it all this 
mass of people, the young girls in their bright colors, 
tripping about, giggling and smiling, the entire com- 
pany moving from one amusement tent to the other, 
here fencers, there acrobats, magicians, and other 
forms of popular entertainment, leading up to a gayly 
decorated tent, profuse with bunting, American and 
Japanese flags, where high tea is served to the whole 
company. The hours pass quickly, and as we get ready 



to leave, we arc asked first to sit for a large photo- 
graphic group, Marshal Oyaina being placed be- 
tween Mother and Mrs. Budge, and evidently en- 
joying the whole thing immensely. As we slowly 
wander toward the gate, accompanied by many of the 
guests, the military band starts "The Star-Spangled 
Banner " and " Columbia, the Gem of the Ocean," 
etc., everybody stands still, the men all uncover their 
heads, and we pass out, having had the most enjoyable 
day in Japan since we have come here. Mr. Wilson 
tells us in leaving that he has been present for the past 
nine years at almost every function, but that he has 
never had the like experience. We drive to the hotel 
feeling deeply touched at such hospitality, and after all 
we have enjoyed during the afternoon, we are pleased 
to pass the evening quietly among ourselves. 

Sunday, April 8th. — A somewhat gray day, suit- 
able for spending the morning hours at home to attend 
to some correspondence. An hour's walk at eleven 
o'clock with Ernst and Mr. Kitashima to the important 
Buddhist shrine " Honganji," which we had not yet 
seen, and then through what was formerly the Euro- 
pean settlement back to luncheon at the hotel. At 
two o'clock we are expected at Mr. Okura's residence 








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— the merchant prince of Japan — who has invited us 
to see his museum and then to dine with him at his 
villa, on the river, about five miles from town. At 
Mr. Okura's residence we are received by himself, his 
married daughter, and his son-in-law, the latter two 
speaking English, Mrs. Okura not being present on 
account of indisposition. The Okura residence is the 
finest purely Japanese house we have seen yet. It is 
very large and elegant, surrounded by a beautiful gar- 
den, and, being built on a hill, it commands a splendid 
view of the town. Adjoining his residence Mr. Okura, 
who is said to be very public-spirited, has erected a 
commercial high school, a large building surrounded 
by cottages for teachers and students. Having been 
served with tea and sweets, as is the custom, Mr. Okura 
takes us into his wonderful museum, housed in a sepa- 
rate building connected with the residence, where we 
are shown a unique collection of Japanese and Chinese 
curios, possibly the largest and most varied collection 
of the kind in existence. Mr. Okura tells us he has 
been at it for thirty years and has secured his best 
things after the two or three revolutions, which have 
taken place within this period, when many rare things 
could be had, now no longer obtainable. We under- 



stand that at the beginning of the late war Mr. Okura 
was willing to sell his collection for two million yen 
and to contribute the entire sum toward the expenses 
of the war, but could find no purchaser; it is no doubt 
worth more than two millions now. While we were in 
the Okura museum the house trembled with an earth- 
quake of several seconds' duration; the ladies got some- 
what nervous, but it passed without doing damage. 
Having been with Mr. Okura for two hours, we leave 
to meet him later at his villa. We drive to a landing 
stage on the river where, by appointment, we meet 
Mr. Matsuo and Mr. and Mrs. Takahashi, with their 
daughter, in a barge (with a tugboat), waiting for us; 
we get into it and have an interesting sail down the 
river, which is full of pleasure boats just returning 
from a regatta. We pass the celebrated cherry-blos- 
som banks, and meeting the boats in which the Bank 
of Japan employees have just rowed their regatta, the 
men, discovering us, begin a new short return race for 
our benefit. We are cheered to the echo by the people, 
who line the shore and who bring an American flag, 
which they frantically wave, to greet us. After a 
while our boat is moored alongside Mr. Okura's villa, 
where we disembark and are received by the host and 



a number of his friends, with some of whom we are 
already acquainted. After a short chat, we are asked 
to the dining room, but have first to remove our shoes, 
as this is a purely Japanese establishment; we are used 
to this already. About twenty are present and we 
seat ourselves on low cushions alongside the walls, one 
side of the room being partitioned off by a curtain. 
The first course is served, low red ceremonial lacquer 
stands in beautiful workmanship being placed before 
each guest; then the curtain is drawn aside, and to the 
accompaniment of somewhat weird music a short one- 
act play is performed. So it goes on, all during the 
dinner, which lasts about three and a half hours, 
music, dancing by neat girls, and performances of 
small pieces, all in most serious style. After a while 
the dancing girls join the guests, placing themselves 
in front of their seats, chatting gayly, and once in a 
while getting a nip at the saki and dishes. As the 
dinner nears its end, champagne is brought in, Mr. 
Okura rises to propose Mr. and Mrs. Schiff's health 
(in Japanese, which is translated by his son-in-law), 
and this gives me a welcome opportunity to rise like- 
wise, ostensibly to reply, but in reality to stretch a bit, 
and the others, evidently profiting by my example, 




immediately do the same. Mother has stood the 
ordeal of three and a half hours on a low cushion 
splendidly. With thanks to our kind host, and leave- 
taking from the guests, we depart after ten o'clock, to 
drive to town, which we reach near midnight, having 
had the pleasant experience of another phase of Japa- 
nese society life. 

Monday, April Qth. — After a run of fine weather 
it rains to-day and we stay indoors during the morn- 
ing until 11.30 o'clock, when we have to leave for 
Count Okuma's residence at Waseda, a suburb of 
Tokio, an hour's drive, where we are invited to lunch- 
eon. Count Okuma is the leader of the Liberal party, 
one of the Elder Statesmen, and, with the Marquis Ito 
and a few others, the arbiter of the destinies of his 
country. We are received by the Count and Countess 
in the European annex of their palais, which consists 
of a Japanese and an occidental structure, one adjoin- 
ing the other. The latter is a palatial mansion, richly 
furnished. In the reception room into which we are 
ushered we find a choice company assembled, among 
others the Marchioness Nabishima, at whose ball we 
met Prince Fernando of Italy the other evening; Baron 
and Baroness Iwasaki, Baron and Baroness Shibusawa, 



Mr. Matsuo, Mr. Takahashi, Mr. Soyeda, and a num- 
ber of other acquaintances, as well as several professors 
of Waseda University, which is under Count Okuma's 
patronage, and has with its preparatory school an at- 
tendance of seven thousand. The luncheon itself is a 
refined and magnificent affair. The table is decorated 
with orchids and rich flowers from the Count's con- 
servatories, the menus are little works of art, and the 
whole has the most aristocratic impress that we have 
yet experienced in Japan. The Count rises and in (as 
we are told afterwards) choicest language addresses 
his guests, explaining that Mr. Schiff's assistance in 
saving the life of the nation deserves his being hon- 
ored by the entire nation, and proposes my own and 
Mother's health. Thereupon I rise to respond in a 
few appropriate words, which are translated by Mr. 
Fukai, the Count's toast having been interpreted by 
one of the professors. I am seated between the Count- 
ess Okuma and Baroness Iwasaki, the latter a sweet, 
English-speaking young matron. Mother is placed 
between the Count and Baron Iwasaki, a polished man 
of the world, who is a graduate of Pennsylvania Uni- 
versity. After luncheon we repair to the Japanese part 
of the house, where the Count shows us some of his art 



treasures, but especially his exquisite and poetical floral 
arrangements, the meaning of which he explains to us. 
As it is raining we cannot go into the gardens, but we 
get a good view from the terrace and find them to be 
the Japanese gardens of our dreams, full of dwarf and 
other native trees, waterfalls, and many fine scenic 
effects. We enter the large conservatories, which con- 
tain most exquisite flowers and plants, especially or- 
chids, of which the Count presents some to Mother. 
We chat pleasantly for a while, and then leave, further 
impressed by Japanese hospitality, of which we have 
just enjoyed the most refined kind. We return to the 
hotel and because of the weather stay indoors, pre- 
paring for the holiday which begins this evening. 
Thoughtful friend Neustadt has brought " Matzoth " 
from San Francisco — we should hardly have been able 
to procure any in Tokio, as there appear to be no 
co-religionists here — and as the evening arrives we give 
the "Seder" in our apartments, probably the first 
time this has been done in the capital of the Mikado. 
Mother has prepared the festive table just like at 
home — nothing is missing for the ceremonies — and 
with the entire party around the table, we read the 
" Hagada." Mrs. Budge and Mrs. Neustadt, to whom 



this is something new, are attentive listeners, Ernst 
reading the youngest child part ("Ma Nishtano"). 
Thus in a homelike way we celebrate the old festival 
in distant lands. 

Tuesday, April 10th. — It still rains and we remain 
indoors during the forenoon, especially as we have 
to leave early for Baron Shibusawa's country house, 
an hour's drive, having an invitation there for lunch- 
eon at half past eleven o'clock, an afternoon entertain- 
ment to follow. We reach Baron Shibusawa's house 
toward noon and find a company of forty guests, mostly 
people we have met before at one or the other func- 
tions given in our honor. Though it is raining, we are 
shown by the Baron and Baroness over the extensive 
gardens, and the entire company then assembles in a 
pavilion, erected specially for the purpose of this func- 
tion, most tastefully decorated, and heated and lighted 
by electricity. We sit down to a fine luncheon in for- 
eign style, I being placed between the hostess (who 
speaks only Japanese) and Mrs. Neustadt, and Mother 
between the host and Mr. Neustadt. At the close of 
the luncheon the Baron rises and says, among other 
things (he is a man of about seventy-five years), that it 
is now fifty-three years since Japan's gates were opened 



to foreign nations, and that at that time he was fore- 
most among those who were opposed to opening the 
gates. But he had long ago found out that it was 
well that his counsel did not prevail, and that instead 
Japan had acquired the friendship and good will of 
foreign nations, especially of America and her people. 
He pays a tribute to me for what I have done for 
Japan and drinks to our health. I reply appropriately, 
saying how good a thing it is for my friends and me 
that we only meet the Baron now, instead of fifty-three 
years ago, when he would hardly have shown us such 
splendid hospitality as he does to-day. Luncheon 
coming to an end, we are taken to the Japanese part 
of the house, where we squat on the floor and become 
spectators of a very amusing variety show, geisha girls 
dancing and acting, musicians and some very clever 
jugglers performing. Finance Minister Sakatani sits 
by me on the floor and explains some of the perform- 
ances, and at the same time we discuss serious finan- 
cial affairs — a somewhat ludicrous situation. Time 
passes rapidly, and we take our leave at five o'clock, 
the entire company, as is the custom, accompanying 
us to the door. On our way to the hotel we pay a 
visit to Mrs. Wilson at the American Legation, and 



we reach home at half past six o'clock, just in time to 
prepare for dinner, which we take quietly at the hotel. 
After dinner Mr. Takahashi makes his appearance to 
discuss some business matters, and remains until late, 
explaining to Mother a number of Japanese social and 
family customs, about which she seeks information 
from him. 

Wednesday, April I Ith. — This is the day we have 
set for our departure for Nikko, arrangements having 
been made for our special train to leave in the after- 
noon. Mother uses the morning hours to visit a 
curio dealer, who has been specially recommended by 
Baron Kaneko, while I go to inspect the Imperial 
University, where I am received and shown about by 
Professor Nurzuri, a graduate of Yale and Johns 
Hopkins. The university is an enormous complex of 
buildings in the style of our American university 
buildings and in extent probably larger than Harvard 
or Columbia. I am informed that the attendance em- 
braces 3,500 undergraduates and 500 postgraduates. 
The apparatus of the university seems to be very com- 
plete and up to date, and I am shown a number of 
most interesting departments. A large medical school 
and hospital forms an annex to the university, which 



is not endowed, but supported exclusively by the Gov- 
ernment. Its budget amounts to about 1,200,000 yen 
a year, the average salaries of the professors being 
about 3,000 yen. I cannot see all there is, as it gets 
to be time to return to the hotel and prepare for our 
departure. After luncheon at the hotel we repair to 
the station, where we find our special train in readi- 
ness. This is a private railway, but it has readily 
acted upon the suggestion of the Government to sup- 
ply a special train, which latter is exceptionally com- 
fortable, and we reach Nikko toward seven o'clock in 
the evening. Here we find it rather cold, it being 
north and in the mountains, but the hotel appears to 
be cheery and well kept, and we look forward to the 
morrow with pleasant expectations. This is said to be 
a good place for curios, and we understand the makers 
have been busy night and day turning out a good sup- 
ply — especially of rare old curios — in anticipation of 
our coming here. 

Thursday, April I2th. — A bright day and bracing 
atmosphere, so right after breakfast the entire party 
start for the temples, Nikko being renowned for the 
finest Buddha shrines, erected by the famous Tokugawa 
family some 260 years ago; the well-known crest of 



this family (three leaves) is found on the best old 
lacquer work of Japan. A beautiful avenue of cryp- 
tomeria trees leads to the temple court. The main 
temple is splendidly decorated, somewhat too much 
perhaps, but the carved woodwork and the collections 
of personal belongings of the first Shogun of the Toku- 
gawa family are all very fine. The most impressive 
part, however, is the mausoleum, to which leads a 
flight of some 200 stone steps between a grove of im- 
mense cedars. The mausoleum is of bronze, of com- 
parative simplicity. It took us almost two and a half 
hours to view the temple, its annexes, and the mauso- 
leum, so we had just time to return to the hotel for 
luncheon. The ladies preferring to take it easy in 
the afternoon, Budge, Neustadt, and I conclude to 
walk to Kirifuri Cascade, about one and a half hours 
distant. The way leads through some fine mountain 
scenery, ending at the cascade, which in itself is not 
a great affair, but the view, overlooking several fine 
valleys, with a circle of high rough peaks surround- 
ing them, is superb. Taking tea at a little teahouse 
situated there, we return on the same road we have 
come and reach the hotel after a full two and a half 
hours' walk in the late afternoon, none the worse for 



our day's work, although we have been for five hours 
on our feet. Entering the dining room for the even- 
ing meal, we find Prince Fernando of Italy, who 
had arrived during the afternoon with his suite, but 
though we were presented to him last week at the 
ball of the Marchioness Nabishima, he does not ap- 
pear to recognize us and we make no advances. After 
dinner I join the other gentlemen in a game of bridge, 
and though I am still an inexperienced player, I gen- 
erally manage to help out to entire satisfaction. 

Friday, April Ijth. — A clear but somewhat windy 
day, suitable for a short excursion. Accordingly, after 
breakfast our entire party starts out for Noami Water- 
falls. The road is easy, ascending steadily through 
a picturesque valley encircled by mountains. After 
an hour's march the ladies, getting somewhat fatigued 
in consequence of the wind, decide to return with one 
of the guides, the men continuing to the foot of the 
falls, which are reached about a mile farther on, a walk 
of one and a quarter hours from Nikko. Budge and 
Neustadt rest at the teahouse (Ernst has taken another 
road to some copper-refining works), while I continue 
through a picturesque gorge to the main falls about 
ten minutes farther upon a somewhat steep bridle path. 



After rejoining my comrades at the teahouse, we start 
upon the return, reaching the hotel toward one o'clock, 
where we find the ladies somewhat tired, but none the 
worse for the fine forenoon outing. After such " tre- 
mendous " exercise, it is decided that all deserve a 
restful afternoon. In consequence, we stay indoors and 
later take a stroll through the village to the Industrial 
Exhibition Building, which is unimportant, and we 
visit some of the many curio shops, returning to the 
hotel for tea, and remain home to chat and read after 
dinner. 

Saturday, April 14th. — Another fine day, which 
it is decided shall be devoted to the remaining temples. 
The entire party starts out toward ten o'clock and we 
soon find ourselves upon the picturesque hill, where 
the temples are built adjacent to each other. This time 
we visit the temple of the third Shogun, with the mau- 
soleum, which resembles that of the first Shogun, his 
grandfather, except that it is still simpler. Nor is the 
temple quite as richly decorated, it being said that the 
grandson did not wish to overshadow his grandfather. 
We return through charming Nikko Park — a unique 
piece of landscape in pure Japanese style, with a most 
attractive view upon the mountains — and reach the' 



hotel in time for luncheon, having been absent for al- 
most three hours. In the afternoon the ladies again 
go into the village and the shops, while Budge, Neu- 
stadt, Ernst, and I take a walk to the Vermilli Cascade, 
near which is located the old Takinoo temple, a Shinto 
shrine. The road constantly rising forms an avenue 
between tall cryptomeria trees until the cascade is 
reached, a most romantic spot, where the simple temple 
is guarded by an old priest and his young grand- 
daughter, the guardian receiving, as he tells us, the 
magnificent pay of 3.70 yen a month. It is hard to 
understand how people, all over Japan, can subsist 
upon the insignificant pay they receive. We return 
by a different road, and arriving at the hotel after an 
absence of about one and a half hours, we find the 
ladies upon the terrace taking tea and enjoying the 
magnificent sunset, which produces a unique picture. 
The narrow valley below, with the rapids formed by 
the river, which forces its way through the valley; the 
little town somewhat in the distance with the snow- 
covered mountains overshadowing it; the huge crypto- 
merias with their dark green foliage, all these present 
a picture most beautiful, impressive, and not soon to be 
forgotten. But the sun has disappeared, and it is well 



to go indoors. We again pass the evening in conversa- 
tion with some of the guests whom we have met before, 
a game of bridge, and the hour for retiring has arrived. 
Sunday, April 15th. — Again the weather is glori- 
ous, and we decide to undertake the somewhat arduous 
but famed tour to Lake Chuzenji, situated about eight 
miles from Nikko at an altitude of 4,300 feet (2,300 
feet higher than Nikko). We start shortly after nine 
o'clock, Mr. Gordon, Ernst, and I on foot (Mr. Neu- 
stadt also starts with us, but he gives out after about 
four miles and returns), Mother, Mrs. Budge, and 
Mrs. Gordon in jinrikishas to Umagaeshi, where a 
short halt is made, the ladies changing here to sedan 
chairs, carried by four coolies each, as the ascent 
from here is somewhat steep. The gentlemen con- 
tinue on foot, and we all reach the lake toward one 
o'clock in fine condition, ready for luncheon, which 
we find at a nice inn, very fairly kept, in foreign style, 
for such an out-of-the-way place. The views from the 
road up the mountain are most picturesque. The lake 
itself is a fine sheet of water, about eight miles in cir- 
cumference, surrounded by dense woods, forming very 
romantic scenery. Having rested for one and a half 
hours, we start upon the return at half past two o'clock, 



Mrs. Budge joining the pedestrians. We view the 
cascade of Kegon-no-Taki near the summit, which 
empties into a dark rocky pool 250 feet below. Keep- 
ing steadily upon our way, and taking advantage of a 
number of cut-offs, we reach the hotel at 6.30 o'clock, 
having covered a total of fifteen miles and been six 
and a half hours on our feet. The ladies are likewise 
none the worse for their long jinrikisha and chair ride, 
and we all feel in fine spirits because of the beautiful 
outing we have enjoyed. This being the eve of the 
last day of " Pesach," prayers are said in our rooms 
and the evening spent in pleasant conversation and 
reading. 

Monday, April 16th. — It rains hard and we are 
compelled to remain indoors, except that some little 
time is spent in the shops, some of which display the 
finest things we have yet seen in Japan. Aside from 
reading, bridge playing, and planning, nothing can be 
done, as the rain continues throughout the day. 

Tuesday, April Ijth. — This must be our last day 
in these beautiful and impressive surroundings, which 
have given us so exceptional an impression of Japanese 
scenery, of Buddha temples, and of the customs and 
costumes of the people. To-day is a special festival; 



the populace of the village and the surrounding coun- 
try appear in their gala dress, the children, partic- 
ularly the girls, in bright colors, the roads and streets 
being filled with people. At ten o'clock a procession, 
carrying a shrine, appears, and we follow it to the 
temple hill. The music accompanying the procession 
resembles somewhat the Scotch drum and fife, and 
upon its appearance before the main temple, a number 
of Buddhist priests come out of it, the high priest in 
scarlet, his assistants in white, and march around the 
open space, shortly entering an enclosure, where we 
are told the priests will remain until all the shrines, 
twelve in number, will have appeared and then the 
festivities will take place. Unfortunately we cannot 
await this, and must return to the hotel to prepare for 
our departure soon after midday. We all agree that 
we have never seen a more orderly crowd. Drunkards 
and beggars appear to be unknown in Japan; the re- 
spect for the aged is most touching; the children of 
the street, who appear to be without number, are al- 
ways modest, always shy, and it is a pleasing spectacle 
to see the elder children carefully guarding and lead- 
ing the younger ones. We leave pleasant Nikko after 
luncheon, the entire party — except myself — taking 



jinrikishas for a distance of five miles, while I go on 
foot, to enjoy the beautiful avenue of cryptomerias, 
said to extend in all for fifteen miles. Then we enter 
the train which awaits us, and soon we are en route 
to Tokio, being met about halfway by the superin- 
tendent of the railroad, who accompanies us to Tokio, 
where we arrive at half past seven o'clock just in time 
for dinner. Later in the evening Mr. Takahashi pays 
us a visit, and remains till late discussing various sub- 
jects, principally the plan to send his young daughter 
with us to America, so that she may obtain a foreign 
education. 

Wednesday, April 1 8th. — Tokio hails our return 
with bright sunshine, most welcome after two days of 
rain. Little can be done in the forenoon, and as 
Mother wants to attend to some correspondence, I 
look at some shops with Mrs. Budge and take a short 
walk before I call for Mother and the rest of the 
party to drive to Baron Iwasaki's villa, where we have 
been invited to luncheon. The Iwasakis are at the 
head of the shipping industry of Japan, of which they 
have been the founders, and with the Mitsuis and 
Shibusawas form the money aristocracy of Japan, and 
they are said to be socially the most exclusive. The 




C^n^c^f^ 7t^^-s^_ / 



± 

fi 





villa, where the luncheon is given, is one of a num- 
ber owned and occupied at divers seasons by Baron 
Iwasaki, who is a comparatively young man, a gradu- 
ate of Pennsylvania University, and a perfect man of 
the world. The Baroness is an attractive Japanese 
lady, who speaks some English and makes a charming 
hostess. We meet there Mr. Kato and his wife — the 
latter being a sister of Baron Iwasaki. Mr. Kato was 
formerly Ambassador to England, and lately Minister 
of Foreign Affairs, having resigned about a month 
ago because of his strong opposition to the Railway 
Nationalization Bill, a Government measure. I am 
seated between the hostess and Mrs. Kato, Mother 
between the host and Mr. Kato, and we much enjoy 
conversation with these well-informed people. After 
luncheon we are shown through the conservatory and 
its annex, the latter containing a choice collection of 
rare Chinese porcelain. A promenade is then made 
through the extensive park, which is laid out most 
tastefully and attractively, and includes a large lake, 
spanned by artistically built bridges, and we finally 
find ourselves in the Japanese annex, where tea and 
refreshments are served, and a short rest is enjoyed, 
after which we take leave, as we must return to the 



hotel to prepare for the banquet which the Mayor 
and aldermen of the city have tendered us. Mother 
takes a short rest, and shortly after six o'clock we 
proceed to the Maple Club and are received by the 
Mayor and the aldermen, as well as the Governor 
of the province, a number of ladies — none of whom, 
however, speak English — being also present. A Japa- 
nese dinner in best style is then served, with the 
requisite geisha girls in attendance, and during the 
dinner an interesting performance by a mimic and 
dancing take place; but we have seen by this time 
rather too much entertaining in purely Japanese style, 
and we are therefore somewhat pleased with the pros- 
pect that this will likely be the last dinner " on the 
floor," with food not entirely adapted to our stomach 
and taste. We return home at ten o'clock. 

Thursday, April iQth. — Again the day is bright. 
Mother wishes to visit Mrs. Katseda's (a friend of 
Mrs. Imanishi) girl school, some distance from the 
city, Ernst accompanying her, and as I have some 
shopping and visiting to do, we arrange to meet at 
12.30 o'clock at Mr. and Mrs. Sonoda's house, where 
we are invited to luncheon. Mr. Sonoda, formerly 
President of the Specie Bank, now the President of 



the Nobles' Bank, is one of the best-known financiers 
in Japan and apparently very popular. He has lived 
for a number of years with his family in London, 
where he was consul-general. During the late war 
he set an example, taking his gold and silverware to 
be melted down for the purpose of the war fund, 
which example others to a considerable extent fol- 
lowed. Mrs. Sonoda, who like her husband speaks 
English fluently, is a very charming woman. She fre- 
quently has helped us out as interpreter with the other 
ladies when we met her at social gatherings. It is a 
family luncheon we have with them to-day, only one 
other couple and Mr. Fukai being present besides our 
party. The affair is very sociable, and after luncheon 
we repair to the garden, where we are photographed 
(by a professional) as a group. Then we are shown 
over the grounds, and finally young Sonoda and some 
friends have a game of jitsuyu for our entertainment. 
It is the football game of young Japan, but much 
gentler and apparently more athletic than ours. We 
return to the hotel toward five o'clock, where, to 
our great gratification, we find a large American 
mail awaiting us, which we can hardly finish read- 
ing before we have to dress for dinner, to which 



we are invited by the Mitsui family at their club, 
which the twelve branches of this powerful family 
have founded for their own exclusive use and where 
they give their entertainments. To-night the invi- 
tation is from Baron and Baroness H. Mitsui, the 
head of the house, which had its origin some three 
hundred years ago. At the dinner about thirty are 
present, Mother being placed between Baron Mit- 
sui and Baron Kaneko, I between the Baroness and 
Mrs. Sonoda. The former does not speak English, 
and again Mrs. Sonoda acts as interpreter for me 
in the conversation. The dinner is in exquisite for- 
eign style, and at its conclusion Baron Mitsui says a 
few words, drinking Mother's and my health, as well 
as that of our friends, to which I reply appropriately. 
After dinner we are ushered into the entertainment 
hall, where two artists — one being Kiokuko Kawabata, 
said to be one of the most renowned artists in Japan 
— are at work painting panels to demonstrate this 
kind of art for our entertainment. The guests sug- 
gest the subjects — Mother asking for a cherry-blossom 
branch, which is rapidly and exquisitely produced by 
Mr. Kiokusku, who also paints at my suggestion some 
birds — a hen helping a little chick to break through its 



eggshell under a rising sun. We are promised that the 
two panels will be sent us when mounted. It is really 
wonderful what these Japanese do to entertain their 
guests. We have now again received a new demon- 
stration of this. However, Mr. Wilson, the American 
Charge d'Affaires, said to me at the Mitsui dinner 
to-night that many people might be for years in Japan 
without getting such opportunities as we had enjoyed 
in less than the month of our presence in the country. 
Friday, April 20th. — This is the day of the Im- 
perial cherry-blossom party, and it is therefore doubly 
gratifying that sunshine again greets us. The fore- 
noon hours are occupied by various minor matters. 
We leave the hotel shortly before noon to take lunch- 
eon with Mr. and Mrs. Wilson at the American Lega- 
tion, where we find a number of American naval and 
military officers, Admiral Train and General Brooke, 
with their ladies, among the number. A pleasant hour 
and a half is spent at the luncheon table, and all leave 
toward two o'clock for the detached Palace Park, 
where the Imperial cherry-blossom party is to be 
held. The streets are lined by a considerable multi- 
tude, who watch the passing carriages and jinrikishas, 
and before long we reach the Palace Park gate, where 




we alight. A considerable number of people are al- 
ready in the park, mostly foreigners, the Japanese 
ladies being conspicuously absent. We are told the 
reason for this is the fact that ladies have either to 
wear the old-fashioned court dress and coiffure, which 
are unbecoming, or European toilettes, which only few 
possess. However, there are a good number of Japa- 
nese gentlemen and some Japanese ladies in European 
toilettes, which to many are unbecoming. We meet 
many acquaintances, both foreign and Japanese. The 
park looks perfect, the cherry blossoms are beautiful, 
and everybody is in good spirits. Before long the pro- 
cession appears, headed by some courtiers, then the 
Emperor in uniform, followed by the Empress (a 
very small lady, rather old in appearance), the Crown 
Prince, Crown Princess, Princes, and Princesses of the 
suite, the diplomatic corps, with their ladies, closing 
the procession. Mr. Nagasaki, the Imperial Master 
of Ceremonies, discovering Mother, offers her his 
arm, and with him she follows the procession, which 
terminates at an open space in the park, where tables 
are arranged for the entertainment of the guests, who 
number probably over five thousand and who quickly 
occupy the tables. Meantime the Empress and her 



suite have entered an open pavilion, the Emperor re- 
maining at its entrance, and the presentation of the 
diplomatic corps, with their ladies and a few distin- 
guished guests, to the Empress proceeds. Some Amer- 
ican ladies being presented by the Charge d'Affaires 
and his wife, Mother expresses her surprise that she is 
not among the number. I then learn from the Charge 
d'Affaires, Mr. Wilson, that he had been under the 
impression our Japanese friends had arranged for 
Mother's presentation and had therefore not applied 
for her, it being now too late to do this. Mother had 
meanwhile taken a seat at one of the tables with the rest 
of our party, Mr. Takahashi and other Japanese friends 
joining the party. To the latter I mention what has 
happened, whereupon Mr. Takahashi disappears and 
soon returns with Mr. Nagasaki, with the Viscount 
Inaba and the latter's daughter, who is one of the 
ladies of honor of the Empress, her father being the 
special master of ceremony of the occasion. They 
all express their regret at the misunderstanding, of 
which, they said, they had just informed the Empress, 
who had asked particularly that Mother be presented 
to her upon her return from the tea tent, to which the 
Empress had gone upon the conclusion of the regular 



reception. Meantime refreshments are being served, 
and Mother and I are presented by Vice-Minister of 
Foreign Affairs Chinda to Admiral Togo, a small, 
rather shy man. I am also introduced to many leading 
men, to Marshal Yamagata, General Count Katsura, 
and others, some of whom speak German fluently. 
After a little while the guests all rise and form queue, 
the Imperial party again appearing in procession. 
Mr. Nagasaki comes and asks that Mother and I stand 
in the front; the Empress appears and advances toward 
Mother, who is then presented to her by Mrs. Wilson, 
Mr. Nagasaki presenting me; and after a short con- 
versation the procession moves on. Mother blushes 
as everybody comes to congratulate her — such a thing 
being unprecedented — that the Empress has stopped 
the procession to have a lady specially presented to her, 
and we learn afterwards it has been the talk for a day 
in diplomatic circles. We soon are on our way home, 
as we have to attend a dinner at Mr. Soyeda's, presi- 
dent of the Industrial Bank. We reach there shortly 
after seven o'clock, and find a most cozy Japanese 
house, the guests being few, Mr. Soyeda having in- 
formed us in advance that he wanted us all to himself 
and his family. There are present, however, two 



ladies, graduates of Bryn Mawr, both most intelligent 
and sympathetic. The younger, a Miss Kawai, gradu- 
ated only two years ago, and we learn that she has 
been a classmate of our friends, the Goldman girls. 
The elder is the principal of a young ladies' school, and 
the younger has become one of her teachers. Mr. and 
Mrs. Soyeda, with a young daughter, are most pleas- 
ant, and they have converted their Japanese dining 
room into European style for our reception. We are 
served with an excellent dinner, after which we go into 
the upper rooms, where, however, we have to sit Japa- 
nese fashion. As no Japanese luncheon or dinner 
party appears to be complete without an entertain- 
ment, we soon listen to some Japanese music, after 
which we are treated to the tea ceremonial, which is 
a special honor in a Japanese home. The evening ends 
with some free-hand painting of panels by a young 
lady artist. As we enter our carriages, a little package 
is handed to each guest, and upon opening these pack- 
ages upon our return home, we find each to contain 
an exquisite silk embroidery. Moreover, the following 
morning the panels which have been painted for our 
entertainment, and which are quite dainty, are sent to 
us by Mr. Soyeda, a most genial host indeed. Unfor- 



tunately this pleasant day ends with news from San 
Francisco that the city has become destroyed by an 
earthquake, rumors of which sad tidings had already 
been current for twenty-four hours, without it being 
possible to get anything definite. What is man, with 
all his ambitions and aspirations! One single minute 
upsets all! 

Saturday, April 21st. — The sun shines bright, and 
nature smiles, as if in far-away San Francisco hundreds 
of thousands had not been made homeless and probably 
lost their all! 

Shortly after breakfast Mr. Takahashi makes his 
appearance to say good-by, as we leave Tokio in the 
evening for Kyoto and other places, to be away three 
weeks. Later Mother, by prearrangement, calls upon 
Mrs. Takahashi, to discuss with her and an English- 
speaking lady friend some details about young Miss 
Takahashi, whom we are to take with us to our own 
American home, to give her an American education. 
Wakiko Takahashi is just fifteen years old, a pretty 
little girl, who knows no English, but is anxious to 
have a foreign education, and upon her urgent desire 
her parents have, somewhat reluctantly, consented to 
let us take her to New York for two years. I call 




for Mother at Takahashi's to take her to Count 
Matsukada's villa for luncheon, the rest of the party 
having gone there direct from the hotel. We reach 
the Matsukada villa at 12.30 o'clock, are received 
by the Count and Countess, patriarchal-looking peo- 
ple, and find a company consisting of Admiral and 
Mrs. Togo, ex-Minister of Foreign Affairs and Mrs. 
Kato, Baron and Baroness Iwasaki, and two sons 
of Count Matsukada, with their wives, one of whom 
speaks German fluently, having been in Germany 
ten years for his education. We learn the Countess 
has ten sons and four daughters, the former all hav- 
ing enjoyed a foreign education, and most of them 
being now either in industrial pursuits or in the 
service of the state. Mother is placed between the 
Count and Mr. Kato, I between the Countess and 
Mrs. Kato, and we enjoy a splendid luncheon in occi- 
dental style amidst genial surroundings. After lunch- 
eon I have a lengthy conversation with Count Mat- 
sukada upon the financial and economic conditions 
prevailing in Japan, the Count being considered the 
leading economist of the country, and I learn much 
from him that is instructive and interesting. Admiral 
Togo at first joins our group and listens, but apparently 



the subject is too dry for him, and soon he leaves us 
to ourselves. When later we rejoin him and the others, 
I remark to the Admiral that I have apparently suc- 
ceeded in doing what the Russians had never been 
able to do — to drive him away. He is much amused 
and laughs heartily. The afternoon hours pass quick- 
ly, and we reluctantly part from our hospitable host 
and hostess and their guests. We drive to the Im- 
perial Palace to inscribe our names, as is customary 
after the cherry-blossom party, and then return to 
the hotel to prepare for our departure for Kyoto after 
dinner. Leaving for the station after ten o'clock, we 
find our special train awaiting us, consisting of two 
comfortable sleeping cars and a baggage car. Soon 
we are en route and all enjoy a good night's rest on 
the cars. 

Sunday, April 22d. — The day is somewhat gray 
and it is raining slightly. A dining car has been at- 
tached to the train in the early morning, and gradually 
the party assembles in it to get breakfast. The country 
we are traversing is picturesque, the green wheat fields 
and the many dark-green tea bushes being set off by 
many linseed fields in bright yellow. The mountains 
in the background, here and there a river, a glimpse 



at Lake Biwa, and soon we reach Kyoto, the old city 
of the Mikados. We are driven to the Myako Hotel, 
beautifully situated upon an eminence, commanding a 
picturesque view of the surrounding country. We get 
comfortable rooms in a new annex of the hotel, built 
in imitation of the Japanese style of houses, but with 
occidental comfort. Soon we are settled, and the pros- 
pect that we are to have several weeks of old Japan 
undisturbed by social engagements — of which we had 
so many during the past weeks— gladdens us all. 
However, it soons begins to rain, which prevents us 
from doing anything during the afternoon except 
shopping, to which the ladies resolutely set themselves, 
the men accompanying them. We visit the Nishimura 
silk establishment, the most important in Japan, and 
Mother makes some selections. Meantime I go to 
the Yamanaka salesrooms — these are the people who 
have a branch in New York — which are well worth a 
visit, being with their contents a museum of Japanese 
art of every kind. Shortly we all meet again at the 
hotel, which is overcrowded with American, English, 
and German travelers. Nothing can be done in the 
evening, and it is passed in conversation, reading, and 
letter writing. 



Monday, April 2jd. — Kyoto does not treat us well ; 
another wet day and consequent indoor life. Mother 
wishes to remain home in the forenoon, but I go to 
look at some of the silk purchases she made yesterday, 
to bargain for them, which always falls to my lot, as 
Mother is wanting in courage to secure the discount, 
from twenty to fifty per cent, which one can gener- 
ally get. I also go again to Yamanaka's, and am 
tempted to make some investments. After luncheon 
the entire party, except myself, as I need to do some 
letter writing, go to visit the castle. Mother, return- 
ing after two hours, explains that the castle is a vast 
wooden structure, built some 300 years ago for the 
use of the Shoguns, who did homage in this old capital 
to the Emperor. The decorations, especially the ceil- 
ings, are very fine, but one misses the furniture, of 
which all Japanese dwellings are bare. In the late 
afternoon we all go to the cherry-blossom dance, a 
kind of ballet given in one of the theaters during the 
month of April, the cherry-blossom season. We enter 
and are first shown into an anteroom, where ceremonial 
tea is prepared and served. This tea ceremony is quite 
odd, as I have already noted. The female specialist 
who makes the tea, each cup being separately pre- 



pared, handles the whole affair with tremendous seri- 
ousness and ceremony, but the brew is so strong and 
bitter that to the foreign taste it is rather unpalatable. 
This over, we enter the theater proper, where a con- 
siderable multitude is already assembled. Instead of 
benches, the auditorium is partitioned off lengthwise 
by boards, along which the people sit on their haunches 
in the usual Japanese manner; there are, however, a 
few benches placed upon a balcony for foreign visitors, 
and here we take our seats. The dance soon begins, 
or rather a pantomime, for actual dancing appears to 
be unknown in Japan; it is rather a slow, graceful 
movement, to the accompaniment of somewhat weird 
music. However, this so-called cherry-blossom dance 
is one of, if not the best thing in the dancing line we 
have yet seen; it is very tastefully staged, and about 
fifty girls, who dance, make an attractive appearance. 
The performance lasts about an hour, and this over we 
return to the hotel, somewhat late for dinner. I might 
here add that both men and women of this section are 
finer in appearance than their compatriots of Tokio 
and Yokohama or farther north. The men here are 
bigger; the women have fine, regular features and 
are generally pretty, which is rather the exception in 



the northern section. Dinner over, Budge, Neustadt, 
Ernst, and I indulge in a game of bridge, the ladies 
conversing until bedtime. 

Tuesday, April 24th. — The sun has reappeared, 
which pleases us the more as we have to go to Osaka 
to-day — one and a half hours' distance by rail — to 
attend a luncheon to be given in our honor by the 
manager of the branch of the Bank of Japan, at which 
we are to meet the business men of Osaka and Kobe. 
Osaka is the most important manufacturing center in 
Japan; it has 1,500,000 inhabitants, and is called 
the Manchester of the East. Kobe, about forty-five 
minutes distant by rail from Osaka, is the second larg- 
est port of the country. The ladies have decided not 
to accompany us, but rather to stay in Kyoto, see more 
sights, and do some more shopping. Consequently, we 
men are off shortly after ten o'clock, and reach Osaka 
at noon, where we are taken to the Osaka Hotel, a fine 
structure, picturesquely situated on the river. The 
town makes a very solid impression; it has many fine 
public buildings and looks very prosperous. A recep- 
tion is given us at the hotel, and we are introduced to 
some forty men, the Mayor, the principal bankers and 
business men, most of whom speak English and make 



an intelligent and favorable impression. Luncheon is 
soon served in a large hall, but it is more of a banquet 
than a luncheon. Mr. Inouye, manager of the Bank of 
Japan, proposes our health, to which I reply, and Mr. 
Oaki, manager of the Specie Bank, drinks to the ab- 
sent ladies, friend Budge responding on their behalf. 
We get away again at about 3.30 o'clock, and are back 
in Kyoto soon after five o'clock. The ladies tell us they 
have been to some very unique temples, and have in- 
spected some of the large silk and porcelain factories 
during our absence. The evening again passes in the 
usual quiet manner. 

Wednesday, April 2$th. — What a glorious blue 
sky; it would indeed be a pity not to spend the day 
outside of the city gates. We decide upon an excur- 
sion to the rapids of the Hozugawa, start at ten o'clock 
by rail for Kameoka, an hour's distance. The rail- 
road is literally hewn into the rock, the valley being 
exceedingly narrow, with the river below. Eight tun- 
nels have to be passed upon this short distance of thir- 
teen miles, and emerging from tunnel after tunnel, new 
picturesque views present themselves. At Kameoka 
station jinrikishas take us to the river, a short distance, 
and here we get into two comfortable flatboats for the 




descent of the river, through the many rapids. This 
is by no means a very exciting affair, but the hour-and- 
a-half boat ride, between and over the rocks in the river, 
the mountains on both sides coming almost straight 
down to the river's edge, is a most interesting and some- 
what romantic experience. Upon finishing the boat 
ride, we land at a teahouse, where a tasty luncheon, 
brought by the guides from the hotel, is taken, the 
entire party being in fine spirits. After luncheon 
Mother, Mr. Budge, and I set out for a walk, and 
finding ourselves upon the sunny side of the river, we 
seek a means to get transferred to the other bank, which 
we can, however, not find available. The guide dis- 
covering a private pleasure boat occupied by a Japa- 
nese gentleman with his wife and daughter, mentions 
to them our desire, whereupon the man, upon learning 
from the guide who we are, immediately offers to 
place himself at our disposal, and inviting us to his 
boat, takes us a little distance up the river and lands 
us upon the shady side, from where we enjoy a fine 
walk back to the village, crossing a bridge located at 
that point to rejoin our party. We repair to the rail- 
way station, for a ten minutes' ride to a point to which 
we had ordered our jinrikishas, in which we return 



through a beautiful country in radiant spring dress, to 
Kyoto, about one and one half hours' distance. On 
the way we pass through an old, very interesting-look- 
ing Buddhist monastery and then stop at the pavilion 
built by one of the Shoguns, who was the originator 
of the tea ceremony, several hundred years ago. The 
pavilion is in reality a complex of buildings contain- 
ing some interesting objects and is situated in a fine 
park, with some charming landscape gardening. After 
continuing our ride, we find ourselves before long at 
the hotel again, in good time for dinner, after which 
the evening hours are passed in the usual way. 

Thursday, April 26th. — It seems that in Japan a 
rainy day invariably follows two or three fine days. 
The morning is gray with a sprinkling of rain and 
we have nothing particular to plan. Mother and I 
visit some shops and later the Art Museum, not a very 
great affair, but we pass through some charming nooks 
of old Kyoto and return to the hotel for luncheon. In 
the afternoon, as the others of the party prefer to re- 
main at home, Mother, Ernst, and I decide to visit 
the palace, for which we have brought permits from 
Tokio, the Japanese taking these things very seriously, 
and it takes a lot of red tape before one can get into 



any governmental building. The palace is situated 
within a fine park, but the buildings themselves are 
only partly interesting. The old palace, which was 
the residence of the Mikados for several hundred 
years (until in 1868 the capital was transferred to 
Tokio), burned down some twenty years ago; the pres- 
ent palace is said to be a reproduction of the old one. 
It is in pure Japanese style and compares in no way 
with the beautiful palace in Tokio, the more modern 
residence of the Emperor. The rain now coming 
down heavily, we are compelled to return home and to 
remain indoors the rest of the afternoon and evening. 
Friday, April 2Jth. — Kyoto is not treating us en- 
tirely right, for it is raining again and we must once 
more remain at the hotel. After luncheon, however, 
Mother and I conclude to venture out, and the others, 
taking courage from us, follow suit. We take jin- 
rikishas to the Imperial Museum, and are there met 
by the director and his assistant, who, having learned 
of our coming, offer to accompany us through the 
museum and to explain its contents. It is really touch- 
ing how attentive everybody is, wherever we go. The 
Museum is quite a creditable institution, being well 
filled with old Japanese paintings, prints, curios, and 



many articles showing the ancient art and develop- 
ment of the civilization of the Japanese people. We 
spend about an hour and a half at the Museum, and 
before we return to the hotel we disperse to do vari- 
ous kinds of shopping, the curio dealers being always 
the great attraction. What a lot of truck we are all 
accumulating! The evening hours are approaching 
before long, and dinner again unites us at the hotel, 
with the usual pastime until bed hour. 

Saturday, April 28th. — The sun is trying hard to 
get through, and this last day of our stay at Kyoto 
promises to be at least not too unfavorable. Mother 
and I go off about ten o'clock by ourselves to see some 
of the public schools, of which we have heard much, 
education being compulsory in Japan, and, as in the 
United States, entirely free; the truant system is said 
to be quite rigid. We visit first a primary school, 
where we are shown around by one of the head masters. 
The children range in age from five to about twelve 
years, and the system does not appear to be very dif- 
ferent from that in our own schools, boys and girls 
being separated. In the lowest grade there is just a 
recess, the children playing around. They are rather 
shy upon our approach, but after I have succeeded 




in making friends with one little boy they all come 
around and pat my hand and try to make friends in 
the most comical manner. Leaving the primary school 
we repair to a girls' high school not far distant, where 
the president receives us and takes us around. The 
school is a large one, having some thirty-five class- 
rooms, the girls ranging in age from about fourteen 
to eighteen years, a most intelligent-looking class of 
young women. We are especially interested in the 
cooking department, where both Japanese and foreign 
styles of cooking are taught; in the music class, where 
singing is taught to the accompaniment of the piano 
and where the girls sing the national anthem for us; 
in the gymnastics department, where calisthenics are 
going on in a most approved manner. We also visit 
the sewing class and many other of the various de- 
partments and are struck by the earnest and thorough 
manner in which everything is being conducted. The 
modesty, tact, and politeness of the girls are remark- 
able, but only bear out the impressions we have already 
received everywhere of a genial, modest, and well- 
mannered people; this is true of even the common 
folk. Leaving the school we visit the largest Buddha 
temple in Kyoto, where we have an opportunity to 



be present at service, and then we return to the 
hotel for luncheon. In the afternoon I go to take 
a walk in the park, where another gorgeous temple 
invites inspection, while Mother and Ernst go to a 
fencing school, which they report to have found most 
interesting. The time having arrived for our de- 
parture for Kobe, where we are to take the steamer 
for the Inland Sea, we repair to the railway sta- 
tion, where again we find a special train awaiting us, 
which takes us promptly to our destination, a ride 
of some two hours. At the Kobe station we are re- 
ceived by the Vice-Governor and the chief of police, 
who accompany us to the landing stage, and soon we 
are on board of the good boat Ohio III, a steamer 
of about one thousand tons capacity, sailing under the 
American flag, and which has been chartered by the 
Bank of Japan for our use in the Inland Sea and our 
journey to Korea. Captain Jones, the commander, an 
Englishman, endeavors to make us comfortable, which 
is not difficult, as the boat, with its cabins, offers 
good accommodation for the entire party, including 
Mr. and Mrs. Gordon, whom we have invited to be 
our guests for the trip to Korea. Dinner is served 
soon after, which tastes very good, the whole arrange- 



ment being just like that on a private yacht, Mother 
and I being the hosts. The steamer starts on its voyage 
about 1 1 P.M., and we soon retire to our cabins for 
the night. 

Sunday, April 2Qth. — The weather has only waited 
to get nice until we could fully appreciate it here on 
these glorious waters of the famous Inland Sea. As we 
come on deck in the morning, the steamer is just en- 
tering the so-called northern passage, which is too nar- 
row and too full of islands for the larger ocean boats, 
which have to seek the wider southern passage on their 
way to China. The picturesqueness of this passage can 
hardly be described. The main coast is mountainous 
throughout, almost every mountain being covered with 
green fields, with towns and villages nestling in every 
nook and corner. Almost every island we pass, and 
these are without number, has an elevation, the effect, 
being heightened by the pure blue sky and the glori- 
ous sunshine. Perhaps Norway furnishes a somewhat 
similar picture on some parts of its coast, but hardly 
as gladdening as this at once grand and peaceful 
panorama. After feasting upon this wonderful scenery 
for some eight hours, we cast anchor at four o'clock 
in the afternoon in the bay of Miyajima, and are 



promptly taken ashore upon Japanese junks. Miyajima 
is a sacred island, it being dedicated to the Shinto 
temple, which latter is built on piles right over the 
ocean front, so that at high tide the temple appears 
from afar as if swimming upon the waters. As we 
approach the temple gate, we are received there by 
Baron Asano, chief keeper of the temple, whose family 
has for seven hundred years been the main support of 
this temple. With his assistant he takes charge of our 
party, and after having first explained to us the temple 
and its annexes, the two fine-looking men take us 
around the shores of the island into a most wonderful 
grove, which forms a natural terrace, where we are 
served with coffee. Then Mother is asked to plant 
a young tree, which has been brought by order of 
Baron Asano, and after she has done this most grace- 
fully, a tablet is promptly erected near it, inscribed 
" Planted by Mrs. Scruff," and a bamboo inclosure is 
to be built around it. Should our children or grand- 
children happen to come to this distant and secluded 
corner of the world, perhaps they may still find here 
this memento of Mother's visit. We all agree that we 
have never seen a more charming spot. The whole 
gives the impression of an enchanted island. The little 




village, with the vista of a bit of Japanese landscape 
gardening in the rear of every little house, the huge 
bright red temple, the high green mountains as a re- 
lief to the whole, furnish a picture hardly to be for- 
gotten. The regular steamers do not touch here, and 
the only boat in the harbor is the Italian man-of-war, 
on board of which Prince Ferdinand of Udine is visit- 
ing this coast; he had been at the temple just before us, 
and his ship is about preparing to leave. The evening 
darkness coming on, we reluctantly have to say good-by 
to our amiable priestly hosts and their beautiful sacred 
island, on which no human being is permitted to be 
born or to die, nor is any farming allowed on the 
island. As we leave, we are informed that the stone 
lanterns, 309 in number, which line the shore and 
which are only lit on festivals and exceptional occa- 
sions, will be lighted in our honor at dark, our steamer 
expecting to remain in the bay until the morning. We 
return aboard in the steam launch of the chief of 
police, who places his boat at our disposal. Dinner 
awaits us on the steamer, and as we come upon deck 
after dinner, the shore is aglow with the lights of 
many lanterns. Thus the day ends amid most enchant- 
ing impressions. 



Monday, April joth. — We begin the day by send- 
ing Joseph ashore with cablegrams, with which we 
and Neustadt transmit out congratulations to Adele 
and Morti, who to-day celebrate their wooden wedding 
anniversary, and our thoughts wander home to chil- 
dren and grandchildren. At an early hour the Mayor 
of Miyajima, the Chief of Police, Baron Asano, the 
guardian of the temple, and his assistant Shinto priest 
come aboard to pay a return visit before we sail and 
present us with photographs and illuminated postal 
cards of their little town, the temple, and its surround- 
ings. The usual mutual compliments are paid, neither 
of us understanding the other's language, until Mr. 
Kitashima comes to our aid and acts as interpreter. 
Then these men depart and I can get to my delayed 
breakfast. The morning is somewhat hazy, but soon 
the sun breaks through, and getting a last view of en- 
chanting Miyajima, we sail away for Kure, where we 
arrive and anchor about midday. Here is located 
the most important navy yard and arsenal of Japan, 
which played a most important part in the recent war. 
Besides a number of torpedo destroyers and torpedo 
boats, which cover the waters, a number of captured 
Russian transports, among these the battle ship Oriel, 



so often mentioned in naval engagements in the Sea 
of Japan and captured there, have been brought here 
for repairs, and make quite an interesting sight. Be- 
fore long a steam launch brings an officer from the 
shore, who is introduced as the second commander of 
the naval station. He informs us that Prince Ferdi- 
nand of Udine is expected toward two o'clock, and 
suggests that we wait until after luncheon before com- 
ing ashore and then join the Prince's party for an in- 
spection of the navy yard and arsenal. This being 
satisfactory to us, we take luncheon, and at the ap- 
pointed time the Vice-Commander appears again and 
takes us ashore in his launch. Prince Ferdinand and 
his suite, having landed ahead of us, have started for 
the inspection of the navy yard, and we follow, but leave 
the ladies waiting for us in the garden of the Adminis- 
tration Building so that they may not tire themselves, 
the entire inspection being expected to take several 
hours. The Prince's party having hurried on, we 
follow leisurely with the Vice-Commander and another 
officer, who show and explain the different features of 
this very large establishment. Among the many other 
reminiscences of the war, consisting of captured guns, 
fragments of the Russian ships, badly damaged and 



removed in the course of the repairs to the ships, we 
are shown a large Russian hospital ship, captured for 
violating the Red Cross flag. The ship is in the im- 
mense dry dock, and it is explained to us that she was 
placed there last week to be put into shape for being 
sent to San Francisco ; meantime President Roosevelt's 
declination of foreign assistance has made further 
preparations unnecessary. We also learn in the course 
of our talk with the Vice-Commander who shows us 
around that he was in command of the torpedo boat 
which made the first attack upon the Russian fleet at 
Port Arthur at the outbreak of the war. After about 
an hour and a half's interesting inspection of the navy 
yard, we return to the ladies, who have meantime been 
entertained by Mr. Arishima, chief instructor in me- 
chanical arts at the naval academy, a most accom- 
plished man, who, we are told, has made some very 
important inventions in gun construction. Just then 
Prince Ferdinand and his suite also make their appear- 
ance, and following them, we all repair to the arsenal 
and are shown the different shops, all of enormous 
size, where the forging of large guns and ammuni- 
tion, as well as the making of armor plates and other 
parts for two large-sized battle ships, which have just 



been launched and which we see floating in the bay, 
is actively being carried on. The work proves most 
interesting, especially to the ladies, who have never 
seen anything of this kind, and the afternoon hour has 
well advanced before we are aware of it. At the out- 
set of our inspection of the arsenal, we are joined by 
Chief Director Katakoga of the station and a number 
of the high officers, who desert the Prince's party to 
accompany us, evidently more interest being shown in 
us than in the Prince. Nearly all of these officers 
speak some English, most of them having been at the 
Armstrong and other works in England. We learn 
among other interesting facts that the navy yard and 
arsenal employ 27,000 workmen, year in, year out, that 
it was started some eighteen years ago, and that its 
great growth dates from the Japanese-Chinese war, 
after which Japan evidently immediately began to 
prepare for a conflict with Russia. Returning to the 
Administration Building, Prince Ferdinand and suite 
are just emerging from it, and Admiral Yoshimat, who 
accompanies the Prince, asks him whether he wishes 
to be introduced to our party, which he answers in the 
affirmative, whereupon I am first presented, and tell- 
ing the Prince that we have already made his acquaint- 



ance at the Marchioness Nabishima's ball at Tokio, he 
expresses gratification at meeting us again. I then 
introduce Mother and the other ladies, and after the 
exchange of civilities, the Prince and his suite pass 
on, whereupon we are taken to the spacious reception 
rooms, where we find high tea prepared for us. The 
entire party has become rather hungry and does full 
justice to the tea, and especially to the excellent cakes, 
which have been provided in great abundance. Rear 
Admiral Yoshimat, having meantime become free by 
the departure of the Prince, comes in to chat with our 
party, expressing his gratification at meeting me, of 
whose services to his country he had already heard. 
Mother is then presented with a small shell from a 
man-of-war captured in the naval battle in the Sea 
of Japan, and which had been nickel-plated as a 
memento. We are then asked to inscribe our names 
in the distinguished visitors' book, a tasteful emblem 
of the crossed American and Japanese flags having 
thoughtfully been placed over the page upon which 
we inscribe our names. Soon after we have to leave 
to return to our ship; the officers accompany us to the 
landing stage, we get into the launch, into which are 
first placed the flowers which had adorned the recep- 



tion room, and before long we again find ourselves on 
board of our good boat, which then promptly sails 
away, as we shall want to reach Moji in good time in 
the morning. At dinner, all being in fine spirits be- 
cause of the interesting experiences we have had, we 
have some champagne opened, and drink to the health 
of Morti and Adele, the wooden-wedding celebrants. 
The evening then passes quickly with bridge, reading, 
and writing. 

Tuesday, May 1st. — After two days of fine weather, 
it has been our experience in Japan, one can almost 
always be certain that a rainy day will follow. After 
sailing all night, we find ourselves in the harbor of 
Moji this morning, the rain coming down in tor- 
rents. I have hardly come on deck, when the man- 
ager and submanager of the branch of the Bank of 
Japan appear to pay their respects and to tell us that 
they have made arrangements to take us by boat to 
the large governmental ironworks, an hour and a half 
distant. The weather being, however, so unfavorable, 
we ask to be excused from going, at which these good 
men seem to feel relieved and bid us good-by. Shortly 
thereafter the Mayor of the town, with the Chief of 
Police, come to pay their respects, and the usual 



amiabilities are exchanged, the Mayor, who is an 
old man, telling me that he had been in the navy 
when Commodore Perry made the treaty by which 
Japan was opened to American commerce, and that 
he had since been to the United States, of which 
he was a great admirer. He departs with his escort, 
and shortly afterwards sends flowers on board for 
Mother, also illustrated memorial postal cards and 
stamps, just issued in commemoration of the fes- 
tivities in honor of the victorious ending of the war, 
these festivities taking place in Tokio yesterday and 
to-day. It is indeed most touching how, even in the 
small and remote places of Japan, people wish to 
show us some kind of attention, in appreciation, as 
they always say, of my services to them in the hour of 
their country's need. We have to remain in Moji 
harbor for several hours to take on coal, an interest- 
ing proceeding, the coal being transferred from the 
barge to the steamer by means of baskets, handled with 
astonishing rapidity by a chain of men and women. 
Moji is the western end of the Inland Sea and adjoins 
Shimonoseki, where eleven years ago the peace treaty 
was concluded between China and Japan, Li Hung 
Chang and Marquis Ito being the respective commis- 



sioners. We leave Moji shortly after noon and soon 
are in the Sea of Japan, steaming toward the island of 
Tsushima, where hardly a year ago Admiral Togo 
dealt so crushing a blow to the Russian fleet. The 
sea is high, regular English Channel weather, and 
most of our party succumb, Mother alone saving the 
honor of the ladies. Budge and I maintain ourselves 
likewise, but as the rain continues and the sea remains 
rough, everyone retires to bed at a comparatively early 
hour, hoping better things from the morrow. 

Wednesday, May 2d. — The sea has become some- 
what more quiet during the night, and on rising, we 
sight the Korean west coast, the Yellow Sea separat- 
ing Korea from China. The rain has ceased and 
gradually the sky is clearing. We wind our way be- 
tween many islands, all rising straight out of the 
ocean; they show little or no vegetation, and, with the 
rugged coast, make an impressive picture. The day 
passes quietly with writing, reading, and bridge, the 
ladies retiring early, while the men remain on deck 
somewhat longer, the night being beautiful, with the 
bright stars and the rising moon over the distant coast, 
and the open but quiet waters into which we have 
drifted on our way to Chemulpo, where we expect to 



arrive in the morning and where we intend to land 
to take the railroad to Seoul, twenty-six miles distant. 
Thursday, May jd. — " The Land of the Morning 
Calm " is the name sometimes given to Korea. As we 
come on deck this morning the ocean is as smooth as 
oil, a hazy atmosphere covering the coast and water as 
well as the islands between which the steamer plies its 
way. The forenoon passes rapidly and soon we are 
nearing the harbor of Chemulpo, so well known from 
its importance in the early history of the Russo-Japa- 
nese war. It was here where the first actual naval 
combat took place between the Varijag and Cor- 
leitz on the Russian side and the Japanese Velles, 
under Admiral Uriu, the Russian ships being blown 
up by their commanders to escape capture. But no 
longer is there any activity in Chemulpo harbor, except 
the considerable number of Korean junks, many of 
which surround our steamer as soon as it anchors, to 
secure the transfer of passengers and baggage. We are 
called for in a steam launch on which are the collector 
of the port, the Japanese consul, and the manager of 
the First Bank (of which our friend, Baron Shiba- 
suma, of Tokio, is the president), the latter having 
come on from Seoul to greet us. Upon landing at the 



dock we are greeted by the Mayor of the town, a 
Japanese; as we have an hour before the train starts, 
we make an inspection tour through the town, stopping 
a short while at the house of the Japanese consul. 
Little can be said about the town, which does not give 
an impression of prosperity. It has a considerable 
Chinese and a still larger Japanese population, aside 
from the Korean populace. The latter are a new ele- 
ment to us, and with their long white coats and strange 
hats, somewhat in the form of a cake dish, placed upon 
the extreme top of the head, make a strange impres- 
sion. The women wear circular coats, sometimes in 
white, but often in green, which they draw over head 
and face, so that you can seldom recognize them. The 
females we saw were all very homely, which may ac- 
count for the hiding of their faces. After a while we 
repair to the railway station, where we again find a 
special train awaiting us, the railroad being built upon 
the American model, with American cars, which form 
a welcome change from the narrow Japanese cars. It 
is only twenty-seven miles from Chemulpo to Seoul, 
the country the road traverses being rather interesting; 
soon we reach Seoul, where we are received at the 
station by Mr. Gordon Paddock, the American consul- 



general; by Mr. Stevens, the American adviser of the 
Japanese Foreign Office; and Mr. Megata, the Japa- 
nese financial adviser of the Korean Government — a 
Harvard graduate — and by a representative of the resi- 
dent-general's office — Marquis Ito — the resident-gen- 
eral being absent in Tokio. After the exchange of 
civilities, we are taken in Sedan chairs to a German 
house, kept by a Miss Sontag, where we find pleasant 
quarters. After a while we make a call at the Ameri- 
can consulate, formerly the legation, a kind of bunga- 
low, very pleasantly situated in a large garden. Then 
we take a walk through the town, which, with its pic- 
turesque population, makes a most interesting impres- 
sion, but is indescribably dirty. Evening coming on, 
we return to the hotel and have a good dinner, retiring 
early. 

Friday, May 4th. — Mr. Gordon Paddock, the 
American consul-general, and Mr. Stevens call soon 
after breakfast to show us the town, for which pur- 
pose Mr. Paddock has arranged to have a special 
trolley car placed at our disposal, which runs through 
the principal streets into the open country. We ride 
the entire length of the trolley line — about ten miles — 
and get a very good view indeed of the town and its 



immediate surroundings, the most oriental we have 
ever seen. The Neustadts tell us Egypt is hardly more 
oriental or more picturesque. We are told there is no 
such thing as law here; he who pays most gets what 
he wants and justice is made to order. The Japanese, 
who since the close of the war have acquired a pro- 
tectorate over Korea, have taken hold with a firm 
hand and are endeavoring to get order out of chaos, 
a task, which is being made as difficult as possible for 
them by all, especially by the foreigners, who hitherto 
have mostly been on the make in one way or the other. 
At one o'clock we go to take luncheon with Consul 
Paddock, who has invited a few Americans to meet 
us, mostly promoters, except a Mr. Townsend, who is 
agent of the Standard Oil Company and said to be 
much respected. While at luncheon at Mr. Paddock's 
Mr. Ku, one of the chamberlains of the Emperor, 
appears to call on me on the latter's behalf, and to ex- 
press his Majesty's regret that, being slightly indis- 
posed, he will be unable to receive me, but he hopes 
that we will accept an invitation to luncheon the fol- 
lowing day with his Grand Master of Ceremonies and 
members of the cabinet at the East Palace, and that 
after the luncheon the ladies of the party will be re- 



ceived by Lady Om — who since the death of the Em- 
press, who was murdered in 1895, has become Princess 
Consort and does the honors of the court. Soon after 
we leave Mr. Paddock's residence and are taken by him 
to the North Palace, a most interesting group of build- 
ings, including the large audience hall, where in years 
gone by the Korean kings, standing behind a lacquer 
screen, which is still there, received the notables of the 
kingdom. The many pavilions and buildings forming 
the palace have in their architecture a strong Chinese 
impress, the whole being most picturesque and impress- 
ive, except that the condition of the buildings is very 
dilapidated. It was here that the Empress was mur- 
dered, and because of this, we are told, the Emperor 
has an aversion against this palace and permits it to 
run down. Returning to the hotel, we have soon to 
prepare to go to the official residence of the resident- 
general, where the acting resident-general, Mr. Tsu- 
ruhara, has invited us to dinner. Upon our arrival 
there we find a company, consisting, besides the host, 
of Commanding General Otani — of Mukden fame — 
Mr. Nabishima, the chief secretary; Mr. Megatta, 
the financial adviser; the English consul-general, and 
also the French consul-general, with their wives, as 



well as the German, the Belgian, and the Chinese 
consuls. The Japanese regimental band dispenses ani- 
mating music during the dinner, which is served in 
fine style; Mother is placed between the host and 
Mr. Megatta, while my seat is between Mrs. Cock- 
burn, the wife of the English consul, an interesting 
lady, who was shut up during the Boxer rebellion at 
Peking with the other legations and tells me all about 
it, and Mrs. Neustadt. After dinner we are treated 
to a production by Korean dancing girls, accompanied 
by a native band, a most unique and interesting per- 
formance. It is midnight when we get back to the 
hotel. 

Saturday, May 5th. — The ladies feeling the neces- 
sity of husbanding their strength, because of the vari- 
ous engagements the day is to bring, remain indoors 
during the forenoon, while I pay some calls on my 
Japanese friends. At one o'clock we proceed to the 
East Palace, where in an open pavilion we are received 
by Mr. Ty-Kun-Sang, the Emperor's Grand Master 
of Ceremony; the Prime Minister, the Finance Min- 
ister, and a goodly number of other dignitaries, all 
Koreans, of whom a number speak English and Ger- 
man, the most intelligent being Mr. Ku, who had al- 



ready waited upon us the previous day. Luncheon is 
soon served in an adjoining pavilion in most approved 
occidental style, the imperial military orchestra fur- 
nishing most excellent regimental music during the 
meal. A Mr. Kettler, a German from Silesia, is the 
instructor and leader of this Korean band, and we 
willingly shower praise upon him when he is intro- 
duced to us. After luncheon the entire party starts 
upon a promenade through the vast park, and we 
become specially interested in the large number of 
beautiful herons which have built their nests upon 
the trees, the impressions we receive being again 
somewhat on the Arabian Nights style. Toward five 
o'clock we return to the hotel, the ladies having to 
prepare for the visit at another palace to Lady Om, 
the Princess Consort. Scarcely arrived at the hotel, 
Mr. Ku, the Emperor's chamberlain, appears again, 
bringing with him a number of messengers, who carry 
packages, which, as Mr. Ku informs us, contain pres- 
ents sent by his Majesty with his repeated regrets that 
he cannot receive us personally. The packages are 
found to contain for each of the ladies two rolls of silk, 
and besides this for Mother a silver teacup, and a pic- 
ture and a leopard skin for me. We express our grati- 



tude and then the ladies depart with Mr. Ku for Lady 
Om's palace. From this reception the ladies return 
after about an hour, and Mother reports of it the 
following : " We were received in an anteroom, where 
we found a young boy about ten years old, who was 
presented to us as Prince Yung, a son of Lady Om (and 
the Emperor) . The young fellow well understood how 
to do the honors and asked us to partake of cakes until 
his mother could see us, he himself taking a good share 
for himself. Soon we were ushered into a second 
room, where we found Lady Om sitting at a table, sur- 
rounded by a number of ladies-in-waiting. She is a 
pure-blooded Korean, evidently very bright, about 
forty-five years old, and is said to have very great in- 
fluence upon the Emperor, her ambition being to secure 
the succession for her son, the present Crown Prince 
being somewhat of an imbecile. Lady Om was very 
condescending, and after exchanging civilities, we re- 
tired, the young Prince again accompanying us to the 
anteroom, where champagne and sweets were served, 
which we, however, declined, this making the young 
fellow very unhappy. We then left for the hotel." 

Shortly after the ladies had come back — during 
their absence I had gone to the club at the invitation 



of Mr. Paddock — another chamberlain of the Emperor 
appears — this time one who speaks German — to say 
good-by on behalf of the Emperor, and again to express 
the latter's regrets that he had not been able to receive 
me, which he would have done despite his indisposi- 
tion did not the Japanese resident-general insist that 
he should have no intercourse with foreigners except 
in the presence of the resident-general or his repre- 
sentative. It appears this became necessary to prevent 
the constant plotting and intriguing the Emperor is 
said to carry on with Russian and other foreign repre- 
sentatives, and this regulation on the part of the Japa- 
nese being now strictly enforced, the Emperor declines 
to receive any foreigner for whom the Japanese resi- 
dent-general may request audience. 

We dine at the hotel early, and after dinner we 
leave for Mr. and Mrs. Megatta's residence to attend 
a reception and ball given in our honor. We find a 
large company assembled, including practically all the 
foreign residents, the Korean finance minister — but 
no other Koreans — and a goodly number of Japanese 
with their ladies. Mrs. Megatta, the hostess, who had 
only returned from Japan the previous evening, we 
find a charming lady, and we quite enjoy this social 



entertainment in this strange land. The music is again 
by the Korean military orchestra and is very good. 
There is considerable dancing, supper being served 
at eleven o'clock, during the progress of which we 
leave and soon find ourselves at the hotel, ready to 
retire for our early departure in the morning. 

Sunday, May 6th. — Thirty-one years ago to-day 
Mother and I became united for life, and therefore 
it is our first pleasure to-day to congratulate each 
other for all the happiness and blessings this long 
period has brought us. May God long continue 
it! Immediately after breakfast we have to leave the 
hotel for the railroad station, our special train being 
booked to leave at 9.30 o'clock. Reaching the station, 
we find a large number of friends, who have come to 
bid us good-by, including Mr. Tsuruhara, the acting 
governor-general; Mr. Megatta, Mr. Nabishima, Mr. 
Stevens, Consul Paddock, a few of the Koreans whom 
we had met, and several of the American colony. Our 
train soon starts on its way to Fusan, the southern port 
of Korea, 270 miles distant, accompanied by the gen- 
eral manager, Mr. Adachi. This road has only been 
opened somewhat over a year, and is entirely owned in 
Japan. It is built like our American roads, standard 



gauge, with American equipment, the entire construc- 
tion being very solid and permanent. The road is no 
doubt destined to aid considerably in the development 
of the country, the possibilities of which appear, under 
the intelligent administration the Japanese are no 
doubt going to give Korea, to be very considerable. 
The country we traverse is rich in scenic variation, and 
the ten hours' travel passes quite quickly. We arrive 
at Fusan at 7.30 o'clock, and are much pleased to find 
awaiting us there a number of cablegrams from home 
with congratulations on our wedding day. Our boat, 
the Ohio III, is in the harbor and we are taken to 
it in a steam launch, but the wind being very high, we 
have some difficulty in getting aboard. The captain 
deems it well to wait some hours for the going down 
of the wind, and we do not leave Fusan harbor until 
after midnight. Scarcely outside, we find ourselves in 
the midst of a storm, which, instead of subsiding, in- 
creases continually in fury. The 117 miles (the length 
of the straits separating Korea from Japan) are at all 
times subject to weather somewhat like that which 
prevails in the English Channel, and we are unlucky 
enough to find these straits at their worst. 

Monday, May Jth. — Everybody appears to prefer 



to remain in bed, and I find myself alone on deck this 
morning at about ten o'clock. With the turbulence 
of the waters, I feel, however, anything but comfort- 
able. No one coming to luncheon, and being person- 
ally not in a frame of mind and body for a meal, the 
day drags drearily on until toward four o'clock, when 
the sea becomes somewhat quieter, and gradually the 
rest of the party make their appearance. We reach 
Moji, on the Japanese side, at eight o'clock, twelve 
hours late, but are happy that the ugly, perhaps some- 
what dangerous, crossing is behind us. We cast anchor 
here to remain for the night, take a good dinner, and 
receive from land a considerable mail, which has been 
sent on from Tokio and has accumulated here, includ- 
ing letters from home, which make us very glad, and 
with the perusal of which we spend the rest of the 
evening. 

Tuesday, May 8th. — The steamer leaves Moji dur- 
ing the night, and as we rise we find ourselves once 
more sailing through the Inland Sea. But instead of 
the beautiful weather and perfect scenery we enjoyed 
during the early part of last week in the same waters, 
it now rains incessantly, so that the coast and the islands 
can barely be seen through the mist. The deck is wet 



and we seek the shelter of the cabin and smoking room, 
where the day and evening are passed with corre- 
spondence, reading, conversation, and bridge playing 
until we retire, hoping for better things from the 
morrow. 

Wednesday, May Qth. — We are called at an early 
hour, as the steamer is to reach its destination, Osaka, 
at half past seven o'clock, and we shall then have to 
disembark to catch our special train. Breakfast is 
hurriedly taken, meantime the steamer has cast anchor 
in Osaka harbor, we make our adieus to good and care- 
ful Captain Jones, and are taken by a steam launch 
to the landing place under the guidance of the sub- 
manager of the Bank of Japan, who has come on board 
at this early hour to receive us, see us safely landed, 
and take us to our train. The ladies in a carriage, the 
men in jinrikishas, are swiftly driven along the ex- 
tensive fine quay, the city of Osaka somewhat in the 
distance until it is reached after a lengthy drive; at 
about half past eight o'clock we get to the railroad 
station, the entrance to which is decorated with the 
American and Japanese flags, while the reception 
room into which we are shown is decked with flowers. 
The Chief of Police, the Vice-Prefect, and a Deputy 



from the Mayor make their appearance to welcome us 
and to wish us a pleasant journey. Shortly our train, 
in which we also find handsome flowers, moves out, 
and we journey through the green fields and moun- 
tain scenery to Nara, which we reach soon after ten 
o'clock. Here we intend to stop over for some hours 
in order to view the celebrated temple with its sur- 
roundings, and we are again received by the Mayor, 
the Chief of Police, and several dignitaries, who take 
charge of us personally to show us the sights. A short 
jinrikisha ride brings us to one of the most beautiful 
spots we have yet seen in Japan. We find ourselves in 
an avenue of cryptomerias and other tall trees, where 
we become surrounded by several hundred deer, which 
press in upon us for cakes, which we buy at a stand 
near by and which are eagerly snatched up by the 
handsome tame animals. As we proceed into the 
park we find it full of wistaria trees, all in bloom, 
of such sizes and fragrancy as we have never known 
before. The rich dark green of the trees and the 
delicate color of the wistaria, in such abundance, 
make an almost intoxicating picture. At the entrance 
of Kasuga Temple a Shinto priest receives us with 
much deference and takes us around. He shows us 



first the dignified Shinto temples and then orders 
two dancing girls attached to the temple to give a 
performance, consisting of a sacred dance, accompa- 
nied by the monotonous music of two priests. We 
are served with tea and dainties, and then proceed 
through the park to the large Buddha, the largest in 
Japan, placed here a thousand years ago, though the 
head was removed some two hundred years ago, it hav- 
ing become damaged by fire. Again mounting the 
jinrikishas we are taken to a charmingly situated inn 
where a good luncheon is awaiting us. The view 
which we enjoy during the meal is most attractive — a 
Japanese garden, with the typical pond, all set in the 
fine mountain scenery in the near distance. Luncheon 
being finished soon after one o'clock, the time has ar- 
rived to return to the station for the resumption of 
our journey to Nagoya, which we reach after a pleas- 
ant railroad ride of three and one-half hours at half 
past five o'clock. At Nagoya we are received by the 
officers of the Bank of Japan and by the president of 
the Bankers' Association, who welcome us to their 
city, in which it is our intention to rest several days 
before we return to Tokio. We drive to the Nagoya 
Hotel, an inn one-half in European and the other half 



in Japanese style, and, as it has become late, nothing 
further is undertaken, all desiring to retire early after 
the full day we have enjoyed. 

Thursday, May IOth. — Again a rainy day, but, not- 
withstanding this, not long after breakfast the whole 
party sets out in jinrikishas (carriages cannot be had 
here) for Nagoya Castle, the principal sight of the 
town. The castle is a unique structure with a number 
of pagodas, one above the other, on the topmost of 
which two large solid gold dolphins are placed, each 
valued at £35,000. The castle was built some two 
hundred years ago, as a place of residence and strong- 
hold of one of the leading daimos, and constitutes a 
regular fortress. From the highest floor a fine view 
of the surrounding country is enjoyed, a large fertile 
plain, and mountains in the distance. Adjoining the 
castle is the palace, with a number of finely decorated 
rooms, by artists of the different leading older schools. 
We return to the hotel for luncheon, and in the after- 
noon, as it continues to rain, we can do nothing but 
visit some shops, in which nothing remarkable can be 
found, the same being the case at the industrial 
museum, which we also visit before returning to the 
hotel for the rest of the afternoon and the evening. 



Friday, May Ilth. — Nothing further remaining 
to be done in purely commercial Nagoya, we have de- 
cided to return to-day to Tokio, but find that our 
special train cannot be scheduled promptly on account 
of the overcrowded tracks. As we do not wish to 
delay our departure for another day, we ask the man- 
agement to reserve a number of compartments on the 
regular limited train, which they promise to arrange. 
The forenoon is utilized in taking one more look at the 
town — the ladies going to a silk-spinning establishment 
— and after taking an early luncheon, we leave for the 
station to catch the train. Upon its arrival we find 
that the management has arranged to make us very 
comfortable, having provided for us an abundance of 
space, and we soon speed toward Tokio, through a 
fine agricultural country, enjoying a fine vista of the 
ocean on the one side and of the mountains on the 
other. The time passes rapidly, and in the late after- 
noon Fujiyama in all its majesty comes into sight. The 
snow in which the mountain was clad when we saw 
it some five weeks ago at Mijanoshto and Hakone has 
mostly disappeared, the top only remaining covered. 
The now green mountain with its white hood, around 
which some soft clouds float, makes a most impressive 



appearance; it looks as if it grew right out of the 
valley, and there is something mystic about the moun- 
tain with its cone-shaped top stretching into the skies. 
After having skirted Fuji for about an hour, it dis- 
appears, and soon the evening shades begin to appear 
and with these our appetite for dinner. We are noti- 
fied that the dining car will not be opened to other 
passengers until our party have had their meal, and 
not wishing to get the passengers into bad humor, we 
take an early dinner, which, for a railroad meal, is very 
satisfactorily served. Two hours remain after dinner 
before we reach Tokio, where upon arrival we are 
promptly driven to the hotel, and find comfortable 
rooms awaiting us and soon retire for the night. 

Saturday, May I2th. — This is darling Gerald's 
birthday, on which Mother and I congratulate our- 
selves the first thing in the morning, and then the cable 
is intrusted with the carrying of our congratulations 
and loving messages to far-away New York. It is a 
fine day and we decide to see something of the parks 
in their spring dress. Hearing that there is a fine 
wistaria show in one of the smaller parks, Mother, 
Neustadt, Ernst, and I repair there, and spend a de- 
lightful hour among the trees, admiring the flowers, 



the groups of parents and children, so fond of nature, 
and we reluctantly return to the hotel for a late lunch- 
eon. In the afternoon Mr. Takahashi calls to take 
me to Count Inouye, who was away when we were in 
Tokio before, and to meet whom specially interests me, 
the Count having had charge of the Empire's finan- 
cial plans during the war. Count Inouye, who is a 
man of about seventy years, one of the so-called Elder 
Statesmen, receives me most cordially, highly com- 
mends what my firm has done for his country, and 
drifting into general conversation, we exchange views 
upon the economic and financial situation for fully 
an hour and a half, after which I leave with the prom- 
ise that I will take luncheon with him before we de- 
part. The evening is quietly spent at the hotel, as 
we have announced that we shall accept no further 
invitations. 

Sunday, May Ijth. — Two days having been fine, 
it is in the regular order that a rainy day shall follow, 
and it pours with a vengeance. Notwithstanding this, 
we have a number of visitors in the morning, and we 
do not leave the hotel until after twelve o'clock, when 
we have to drive to the somewhat distant villa of 
Marshal Oyama, where we had promised to accept 



an invitation for luncheon before we left Tokio three 
weeks ago and which we found awaiting us upon our 
return to this city. Reaching the Oyama villa we are 
received by the Marshal himself, who, though not 
speaking any foreign language, plays the host excel- 
lently. He is a portly man, well in the sixties, with a 
bland expression, always amiable and smiling. His 
wife, a graduate of Vassar, is a most attractive lady, 
who soon makes us feel at home in her house. Miss 
Oyama, the daughter — a sweet maiden of about nine- 
teen years, whom we had already met at the Bank of 
Japan garden party — again captures our hearts by her 
natural, unassuming manner; there are a few other 
guests, the Marshal's adjutant, Mr. Matsuo, Mr. Taka- 
hashi, and three or four others. The luncheon is a 
very homelike affair. I sit next to the Marchioness, 
Mother next to the Marshal. The conversation is as 
between friends of long standing. After luncheon the 
gentlemen sit down together in the hall, the adjutant, 
who talks English quite well, acting as interpreter. 
Marshal Oyama tells us something of his war ex- 
periences, and at our request he presents us with his 
signed photographs. After having been there almost 
three hours we find we should leave, and part with 



many amiable mutual expressions, the Oyamas, we be- 
lieve, having also taken a liking to us. It is still rain- 
ing, but we use the rest of the afternoon to make some 
farewell visits, and returning to the hotel for dinner, 
we remain indoors during the evening. 

Monday, May 14th. — This is to be the last day of 
our stay in Tokio. Early in the forenoon Mr. Taka- 
hashi calls for the party to take them to a loan exhi- 
bition in Uyeno Park, which visit I cannot join, as I 
have to go to the dentist. The latter, a young Japa- 
nese, who has studied and lived six years in America, 
makes a very good temporary filling of a tooth which 
has given me some trouble, and upon my asking him 
for the amount of his fee, he answers: " I really don't 
wish to take any payment from you, Mr. Schiff." 
While I urge that I cannot consent to this, and finally 
force payment upon the doctor, I have found all over 
Japan that people who have heard of me are anxious 
to render me any service they can; it is really touching 
— the appreciation and gratitude of these people. Be- 
fore luncheon I make a farewell call upon Governor 
Matsuo of the Bank of Japan and then return to the 
hotel. In the afternoon, while Mother, with Ernst, 
is looking after the final preparations for the fare- 



well dinner we expect to give in the evening, I drive 
to the Imperial palace and also to the Crown Prince's 
palace to inscribe my name P. P. C. Then I make a 
visit to Mr. Laughlin, the secretary of the American 
Embassy, with whom we have become well acquainted, 
and returning to the hotel, it is soon time to prepare 
for the receiving of our guests, it being the custom in 
Japan for guests to arrive at any time within an hour 
before the time fixed by the invitation. The hour of 
our dinner having been stated as at half after seven 
o'clock, the first guests begin to arrive at seven o'clock, 
and by half past seven every one of the seventy-two 
guests is there. These are as follows: Count Inouye 
(Elder Statesman), Count and Countess Matsukata 
(Elder Statesman), Marquis and Marchioness Niba- 
shima (leaders of Tokio society and related to the 
Imperial family), Baron and Baroness Shibusawa (the 
first banker of Japan and Korea), Mr. and Mrs. 
Nagasaki (Master of Ceremonies of the Emperor), 
Baron and Baroness Mitsui (head of the renowned 
Mitsui family), Mr. and Mrs. H. Mitsui (of the same 
family), Mr. and Mrs. S. Mitsui (also of this fam- 
ily), Mr. and Mrs. H. Matsukata (son of Count 
Matsukata), Mr. and Mrs. B. C. Howard (general 



agent of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, the 
leading American in Japan), Mr. Bekkey (man- 
ager of the Yokohama Specie Bank), Mr. and Mrs. 
Sakatani (Minister of Finance), Mr. Kato (recently 
Minister of Foreign Affairs), Mr. Matsuo (Gov- 
ernor of the Bank of Japan), Mr. and Mrs. Taka- 
hashi, Mr. and Mrs. Gordon (of England), Mr. 
Masuda (leading partner of the Mitsuis), Mrs. Scid- 
more and her son Mr. Scidmore (counsel of the 
American Embassy, his mother being eighty-two years 
old and a fine old lady of great activity; she has lived 
in Japan twenty years), Dr. and Mrs. Biddle (of 
Philadelphia, whom we had become acquainted with 
on the Manchuria), Mr. Mori (private secretary of 
the Finance Minister), Mr. Miller (secretary of the 
American Legation), Mr. Laughlin, Sr. (of Pitts- 
burg), and his son, Mr. Irving Laughlin (attache to 
the American Embassy, the father being at present 
on a visit to the son, having come with us on the 
Manchuria), Mr. and Mrs. Sakurada (friends of the 
Takahashis), Mr. and Mrs. Harold Brown (of Lon- 
don, a well-known English solicitor, whom I had 
already met in New York and of whom we have 
seen considerable in Japan), Mr. and Mrs. Soyeda 



(President of the Industrial Bank), Mr. Dennison 
(an American, diplomatic adviser of the Japanese 
Foreign Office), Mr. and Mrs. Chinda (Vice-Minister 
of Foreign Affairs), Marchioness Oyama (who had to 
come without her husband, who had been called out 
of town), Mr. and Mrs. Huntingdon Wilson (Ameri- 
can Charge d'Affaires), Mr. Ozaki (Mayor of Tokio), 
Mr. and Mrs. Sonoda (President of the Nobles' 
Bank), Mrs. Morton Grinnell (of New York, with 
whom we had become well acquainted on the Man- 
churia), Mr. Fukai (Secretary of the Bank of Ja- 
pan), Mr. Okura (the merchant prince of Japan), 
Baron and Baroness Kaneko (Japan's unofficial repre- 
sentative in America during the war), Baron Komura 
(ex-Minister of Foreign Affairs, who conducted the 
peace conference at Portsmouth), Mr. Hirai (manager 
of the government railroads), Mr. Nakano (chair- 
man of the Tokio Stock Exchange), Mr. and Mrs. 
Kitashima (delegate of the Bank of Japan to accom- 
pany us during our entire stay in Japan), and Mr. 
Asaua (President of the Oriental Steamship Com- 
pany). Carte blanche having been given by us to the 
manager of the Imperial Hotel, the banquet hall had 
been splendidly decorated with flowers, American 



and Japanese flags, etc., the dinner itself being very 
creditable. Mother was seated between Count Mat- 
sukata and Count Inouye, my own seat being between 
the Marchioness Oyama and Countess Matsukata. 
The guests appeared to be in good spirits and time 
passed quickly. Toward the close of the dinner I 
make the following address: 

Your Excellencies, Ladies and Gentlemen: 

It is very good of you to have done Mrs. Schiff 
and me the honor to accept our invitation, so as to 
enable our friends and ourselves to meet you once more 
socially before we have to return to our own homes. 
Let me thank you for the beautiful hospitality you have 
shown us, for the endeavors some of our particular 
friends, whom we have the pleasure of having with 
us this evening, have made, to add to the enjoyment 
and to the interest of our visit, wherever we wend our 
way. Now that our visit draws to its end, we leave 
with muck regret, and, I assure you, with a feeling of 
cordial attachment for your country. While here I 
have been asked repeatedly what impressions we were 
receiving, but not wishing to express prematurely 
formed views, I rather sought until now to avoid a 



reply. I know, however, I shall be asked the same 
question as soon as we land upon our own shores, and 
in parting from you I think I may tell you what my 
reply will be. I shall say that the inherent character- 
istics of the people of Japan appear to be simplicity, 
frugality, and loyalty — loyalty to their sovereign, loy- 
alty to their country, loyalty to one another. I shall 
speak of your piety and of the touching reverence the 
young have for the aged, of the love with which the 
aged dote upon the young. I shall say that in my opin- 
ion your people derive their strength and self-reliance 
from their early and systematic practice of manly 
sports, developing themselves physically and at the 
same time becoming accustomed to control and to sub- 
jugate their passions, and from thirst for learning, edu- 
cation having been made almost as accessible and as 
free as the air they live in. I shall also feel justified 
in saying that Japan having just been victorious in one 
of the greatest wars in history, its people have not be- 
come overbearing, but have modestly returned to their 
daily occupations, evidently resolved to secure by 
peaceful means compensation for the sacrifices which 
have been brought, by opening new markets for their 
commerce and industry — willing, however, to share 



these markets with the other nations of the world, and 
that because of this, Japan should have the good will 
of the other nations and the recognition of leadership 
in this hemisphere, which now of right belongs to it. 
Thus I shall speak of Japan and its people. You have 
your faults; who has not? You have your curio deal- 
ers, but even these appear to be willing to let one keep 
just enough to pay for the return home. And now 
this: Two months ago we came here to visit you in 
order to become better acquainted with your country, 
your people, and their customs. We came as strangers, 
but you received us with open arms and soon we were 
strangers no longer. I know you desired to show your 
appreciation of the service it was my good fortune to 
be able to render your country at a time when it needed 
friends. But now that this account has been so liber- 
ally balanced by you, may I not express the hope, if we 
should come again, or if it should be our still greater 
privilege to welcome any of you in our own homes, 
that no other motive will then be needed for our hearts 
to open to each other than that friend meets friend! 
By no word in our own language can I so adequately 
express what I, and with me, no doubt, Mrs. Schiff 
and our friends, would wish to say in this parting hour 



than by your own " Sayanora " — " if it must be." And 
now I lift my glass to your health and to your happi- 
ness and to the prosperity of your country — Sayanora/ 

The toast is received most kindly, and at its close 
a Japanese flag in flowers, which had been placed over 
the mantel in the center of the room, is electrically 
illuminated, the orchestra striking up the Japanese 
national hymn, the entire company rising. The ad- 
dress is then rendered again in Japanese by Mr. 
Fukai for the benefit of the guests who do not un- 
derstand English. Count Matsukata, who is well in 
the seventies, a most dignified, stately gentleman, then 
rises to make a reply in Japanese, eulogizing me per- 
sonally, and dwelling upon the value to Japan of 
American sympathy and friendship, his toast being 
translated into English by Mr. Fukai. The orchestra 
strikes up the American national hymn, the entire 
company again standing. After this the dinner soon 
comes to an end, Neustadt and Budge first saying each 
a few words, and the company adjourns to the recep- 
tion rooms, the men smoking and conversing animat- 
edly, until gradually the guests take leave at about 
half past eleven o'clock, all expressing pleasure at the 



pleasant evening spent, and assuring us that our visit 
to Japan would not be soon forgotten. We are all 
specially impressed that our coming to Japan and the 
exceptionally open manner in which we were received 
by Japanese society meant considerable for the ladies 
of Japan, who, as we were repeatedly told, had before 
never appeared so frequently in social gatherings until 
our coming. The hour having become late and the 
morrow being the day of our departure at an early 
hour, we retire soon after the guests have left, at about 
midnight. 

Tuesday, May Ijjth. — We have to rise somewhat 
earlier than usual, as Mother and I, with Ernst, in- 
tend to visit Kamakura — where the rest of the party 
had already been — before removing to Yokohama. 
We leave the hotel at half past nine o'clock, and reach- 
ing the railway station, we find a number of friends 
awaiting us to say good-by, among them the Mar- 
chioness Oyama and her daughter, Mr. and Mrs. 
Soyeda, Mr. and Mrs. Sonoda and their daughter, 
Mr. Okura, Mr. Nakano, the President of the Cham- 
ber of Commerce; Mr. and Mrs. Takahashi, and 
others. Soon we are off, and arrive at Kamakura at 
about eleven o'clock. Here we take jinrikishas to 



the temple, which, however, offers nothing of great 
interest. It is the immense bronze Buddha — the most 
beautiful in Japan — which is the great attraction of 
Kamakura and calls forth the admiration of the visitor. 
This wonderfully impressive image is some fifty feet 
in height; its face expresses the most sublime resig- 
nation and contentment. We remain a little while in 
contemplation of the great work and then — from the 
sublime to the ridiculous being only one step — we ride 
to the hotel to take luncheon. The inn being located 
close to the seashore, we remain at the latter for a short 
time after luncheon, as the day is bright and the marine 
scenery attractive. Toward three o'clock the jinrik- 
ishas are again resorted to and we are taken to Mr. 
Takahashi's country place, about an hour's ride, which 
we have promised to visit en route. It is a nice Japa- 
nese villa, with a fine vista over the ocean, facing 
Fujiyama, of which one gets a perfect view from the 
front piazza of the villa, though the atmosphere being 
somewhat misty, we have to content ourselves with the 
outlines of the mountain. Returning to the railroad 
station, we take the train for Yokohama, which we 
reach shortly after five o'clock, and we join our 
friends at the Grand Hotel. Being somewhat fatigued 



from the day's travel, dinner is taken quietly, and we 
retire for the evening soon afterwards. 

Wednesday, May 1 6th. — I have to go back to 
Tokio early to-day to fulfill a number of rather im- 
portant engagements, Mother and the rest of the party 
preferring not to leave Yokohama again prior to our 
embarkation, and having therefore declined an invi- 
tation to luncheon from Count Inouye; this they now 
regret, as they have since learned that the Count pos- 
sesses one of the most important collections of old 
China and curios, which, everybody says, would have 
been greatly worth while seeing. Getting to Tokio at 
eleven o'clock, I find Mr. Takahashi at the station to 
take me to the official residence of the Prime Minister, 
Marquis Saionji, who, having returned from Man- 
churia the previous day, wishes to get my views on a 
number of subjects, particularly of a financial nature, 
before my departure from Japan (an invitation to 
luncheon, which the Marquis Saionji upon his return 
extended to us for the morrow, we had to decline owing 
to the proximity of our departure). I stay with the 
Prime Minister for almost two hours, Mr. Takahashi 
being present and acting as interpreter, Mr. Sakatani, 
the Minister of Finance, also coming in later by invi- 



tation, to join the conference. Marquis Saionji assures 
me that the views to which I give expression will 
go far to mold his own — particularly in regard to the 
financing of the Manchurian Railway and the manner 
of its control and operation by Japan and China. 
At the close of the conference the Marquis orders some 
champagne to be brought in, and he drinks to a pleas- 
ant homeward journey of our party, after which I 
leave the residence of the Prime Minister and drive 
with Mr. Takahashi to Count Inouye's, where we are 
expected for luncheon. Here I find the Marquis Ito, 
who has come on purpose from his distant country 
seat to meet me, and also Count Matsukata, Baron 
Iwasaki, Baron Shibusawa, Mr. Sakatani, Mr. Soye- 
da, Baron Mitsui, and a number of other gentlemen. 
Count Inouye takes particular pleasure to display at 
the luncheon table some of his rarest old Chinese and 
Japanese porcelains, and expresses much regret that 
he cannot show these and other rare things he pos- 
sesses to the ladies, but, in true Japanese liberality, 
he hands me one of his fine pieces to take to Mother 
as a souvenir. After luncheon Marquis Ito asks me 
to retire with him for a little while, as he wishes to 
learn something of the impressions I had received in 



Korea, of which he is the resident-general, and the des- 
tiny of which country is now in his hands, and also 
to make me acquainted with his own views upon divers 
matters, especially the Manchurian Railway and the 
policy of Japan in the new lands and markets which 
have come under its influence. The old statesman is 
full of youthful vigor, most liberal and advanced in 
his views, and particularly impressive when he ex- 
presses himself upon the imperative necessity that 
Japan maintain to the furthest its pledge of the 
"open door" in Korea and Manchuria. He also 
speaks of the relations between China and Japan, in 
which he foresees no difficulties, except that China, 
for the present, appears unwilling to follow Japan in 
its liberal policy toward the commerce of other na- 
tions, but he expresses the belief that this in time will 
adjust itself. Again joining the other company, the 
reflection forces itself upon me how fortunate I am 
to meet together Count Inouye, Count Matsukata, and 
Marquis Ito, the triumvirate of creators of modern 
Japan, and to be honored with their confidences. 
Upon leaving to return to Yokohama, I first drive to 
the German Embassy to visit Baron von Mumm, the 
new ambassador, who has just been transferred from 



Pekin to Tokio, and who had visited me in New York 
when he passed through some four years ago. The 
ambassador receives me most cordially, and we talk 
not only of far Eastern conditions, but also of our 
beloved common native town, Frankfort on the Main. 
I can, however, not stay very long, as I have to catch 
my train, and at five o'clock I find myself back in 
Yokohama, Mother having spent the day completing 
her purchases. The evening is spent at the Oriental 
Hotel, where Budge and Neustadt have invited us for 
a sumptuous farewell dinner among ourselves. 

Thursday, May Ijth. — This being the last full day 
in Japan, a great many minor matters have to be at- 
tended to, which occupy most of the day. In the af- 
ternoon Mother and I go to take tea with old Mrs. 
Scidmore, who, notwithstanding her eighty-two years, 
makes a very entertaining hostess, and having resided 
here for over twenty years, she tells us much of interest 
about the American colony, both in Yokohama and 
Tokio. We have promised to spend the last evening 
in Japan with Mr. and Mrs. B. C. Howard, agent for 
the Pacific Mail, and one of the most respected for- 
eign residents of Yokohama. We meet there at dinner 
Mr. Koopman, representative of the Standard Oil 



Company, and his daughter; also Consul-General and 
Mrs. Miller, very pleasant people, the evening passing 
very sociably. 

Friday, May l8th. — The day of our departure 
from Japan has come. We leave behind us eight most 
interesting and instructive weeks. We have been re- 
ceived in Japan probably with greater cordiality than 
almost any foreigners who have come here in recent 
years; we have made a large number of friends and 
acquaintances, through whom we have learned much 
of life and conditions in this wonderful land. Now 
time is up and we are glad to return to the dear ones 
whom we have left behind in our own beloved coun- 
try. Visitors come in early to say good-by, and a con- 
siderable number await us at the pier and on the 
Empress of Japan, which is to carry us across the Pa- 
cific. Mr. and Mrs. Takahashi and members of their 
household have come to bring their young daughter 
Wakiko, of whom we are to have charge for the next 
two years, the girl being desirous of getting an Ameri- 
can education. She is just fifteen years old, knows 
no English or other foreign language, and is a typical 
Japanese maiden. Mother believes it somewhat of a 
responsibility we are undertaking in assuming charge 



of the girl and her education, but Mr. Takahashi has 
shown himself so good a friend, and it appears so 
tempting a problem to introduce this young Japanese 
maiden into a new world of speech and thought, that 
we have decided to endeavor to assume the responsi- 
bility. Among others who have come to say good-by 
are Count Inouye, Baron Shibusawa, Mr. and Mrs. 
Biddle, Mr. and Mrs. Howard, Mr. and Mrs. Gordon, 
Mr. Laughlin, on behalf of the American Embassy; 
Mr. Beckey, manager of the Yokohama Specie Bank; 
Mr. and Mrs. Soyeda and their daughter, Mr. Mori, 
Mr. Fukai, Mr. Kitashima, and many others, among 
whom is also the Governor of Yokohama province. 
Telegrams are received from almost everyone we know 
in Tokio, also flowers in great profusion, many of the 
state ministers sending a goodly supply. Punctually 
at twelve o'clock the steamer weighs anchor and amid 
cheers we are off upon our journey homeward bound. 
The boat is pleasant, more like a very large yacht; 
its rooms are large and comfortable, and, if the weather 
remains favorable, we shall be satisfied with her; for 
an agitated sea she appears somewhat small in com- 
parison with the big steady Manchuria, upon which 
we came hither. The boat is very full and we find 



some acquaintances among the passengers. As most 
of our party are somewhat fatigued, especially Mother, 
who is just beginning to feel the considerable strain 
of our many doings during our stay in Japan, we 
retire after a luncheon for a " nappy " afternoon, to 
meet later at the dinner table. No one surrenders 
to the wiles of the ocean, all coming to the evening 
meal and appearing to enjoy it, after which we soon 
seek the comforts of our bunks. 

Saturday, May IQth, to Monday, May 28th. — 
Nothing eventful having happened, it is needless to 
record daily our doings and experiences on board 
the Empress of Japan. The journey across the Pa- 
cific, which in these northern waters is said to be at 
all seasons wet and unpleasant, has been quite satis- 
factory. While we did not have very much sunshine, 
one could be on deck every day, and, with the excep- 
tion of two or three days, when the sea was somewhat 
choppy, the journey was quite smooth. The boat be- 
haved admirably, going at all times very steady, while 
the food and general arrangements were also quite 
satisfactory. The company on board was rather un- 
interesting and there was little social life. My own 
daily round consisted in breakfast at nine o'clock, a 



visit to Mother in her cabin for a morning chat, an 
hour's walk on deck, and reading until luncheon at half 
past one o'clock. Then another short walk, a little nap, 
reading and writing until after six o'clock, another 
hour's walk, and dinner at half past seven o'clock. 
Toward nine o'clock a game of bridge with Budge, 
Neustadt, and Ernst Schiff, lasting about two hours, 
and to bed not far from midnight. This was the daily 
routine. We expect to reach Vancouver to-morrow, 
Tuesday, May the 29th, and shall then have completed 
our interesting journey to the Far East. It has been 
most satisfactory in every respect, as the foregoing 
record amply proves. I am truly grateful that every- 
thing has passed off so smoothly and that we are again 
about to reach the North American continent in per- 
fect health and fine spirits. 

Tuesday, May 2Qth. — On rising in the morning 
land is in sight, and we are rapidly nearing Victoria, 
B. C, where the steamer is to make its first landing. 
Before docking we are delayed for some little time 
to pass the quarantine inspection, which is particularly 
strict against Japanese and Chinese immigrants, of 
whom we have quite a number on board, not to speak 
of Hindoos, of whom there are likewise a number 



among the steerage passengers. It is a strange pic- 
ture to see these different races crowded together upon 
the lower decks preparatory to the inspection by the 
authorities. After some time this inspection is fin- 
ished, and we soon make fast to the dock, where a 
small number of passengers disembark. The agent of 
the Canadian Pacific Railway Company comes on 
board to inform me that two private cars are awaiting 
our party at Vancouver and that all arrangements have 
been made to move us at our convenience promptly 
over the Canadian Pacific Railway. I am also visited 
by the agent of the Western Union Telegraph Com- 
pany, who offers his services, which I utilize by send- 
ing a number of telegrams and cable messages announc- 
ing our safe arrival to children, relatives, and friends. 
Soon the steamer is en route again for Vancouver, a 
distance of some six hours from Victoria. It is a 
beautiful sail, the weather being perfect, and we reach 
Vancouver at about six o'clock in the afternoon. We 
repair to the Hotel Vancouver, a very satisfactory 
hostelry, where it is our intention to remain until the 
following evening. We are made very happy by 
letters from our children and beloved ones in New 
York, reporting upon the events of several weeks, 



and we also receive telegrams advising us that all 
are in good health and condition. The hour has 
become somewhat late, and, after taking dinner, we 
retire. 

Wednesday, May joth. — This is the feast of Pen- 
tecost, but so far away from home the day is unfor- 
tunately wanting in impressiveness. We are told that 
the park of the town is worth while visiting, and we 
leave the hotel soon after breakfast for a drive into 
the park. The latter occupies an island, connected by 
a short bridge with the town, and while this park is 
somewhat primitive, yet it is quite attractive, with its 
tall trees and fine vistas upon the bay. Ernst Schiff 
and I leave the carriages and the party about midway 
in the park, the party desiring to drive back, while 
Ernst and I walk home, a distance of some three miles. 
We reach the hotel in time for luncheon, after which 
the preparations for our departure are made. We 
leave at five o'clock for the railroad station, where we 
find two very commodious private cars, sent by the 
Union Pacific Railroad Company, awaiting us, in 
charge of Mr. Hudson, one of the trusted and ex- 
perienced superintendents of the dining service of the 
Union Pacific Company, who had taken charge of 



us on our outward journey. We make ourselves com- 
fortable, and soon are moving eastward. The evening 
advances rapidly, but we can yet enjoy some pleasant 
scenery before it gets dark. Dinner is served toward 
eight o'clock, and later a game of bridge is indulged 
in; before long it is time to retire. 

Thursday, May Jlst. — Upon rising we find our- 
selves in the midst of the grandest mountain scenery. 
The railroad passes one picturesque canyon after the 
other, the snow-capped giants, the rushing streams 
widening at places into large lakes, forming a con- 
tinuously changing, impressive picture. We pass 
Mount Donald, Mount Stephen, then the celebrated 
glacier at Glacier Station, and, as evening comes upon 
us, a day of the most wonderful scenic effects has been 
enjoyed. Our train is, however, several hours behind 
time, and as it is not expected to reach " Banff," where 
we intend to remain for two days, until two o'clock 
in the morning (instead of ten o'clock in the evening), 
we direct our cars to be detached upon the train's ar- 
rival at Banff, and retire for the night. 

Friday, June 1st. — Here we are at Banff Station, 
and, after taking breakfast on the cars, we repair to 
the Banff Springs Hotel, one of the many inns the 



Canadian Pacific Railway Company has planted along 
its line from Vancouver to Montreal, and all of which 
seem to be kept in a superior manner. Banff is a beau- 
tifully situated mountain resort, the surrounding snow- 
capped mountains, the Bow and Spray rivers, which 
unite here, the former leaping into the latter over 
steep rocks and thus forming a picturesque waterfall, 
make this a very beautiful and attractive spot. The 
Canadian Government has reserved this entire area 
as a national park and is doing considerable to make 
accessible the natural beauties of the park. After 
luncheon we take carriages and drive into the sur- 
rounding country. We visit the buffalo herd, consist- 
ing of some fifty of these now almost extinct animals, 
mostly very large and fine specimens. We also visit 
the Sulphur Water Cave, said to demonstrate in its 
formation how geysers develop. A long subterranean 
passage leads to a cave into which a mild sulphur 
water wells from the earth, the cave itself receiving 
its light and ventilation from a hole in the dome- 
shaped top, which opening, we are told, has been made 
by the gases and water forcing themselves through, and 
in years gone by having been the outlet of a geyser. 
Having enjoyed our outing to the full, we return to 



the hotel toward evening, and with dinner, conversa- 
tion, and reading the day is soon at an end. 

Saturday, June 2d. — This we decide to make a day 
of perfect rest. We take a short walk in the morning 
and a somewhat longer one in the afternoon. Toward 
evening Otto Schiff, who several weeks ago had come 
from England to visit Canada on business matters, 
arrives to meet us and to join us on our journey East; 
he brings us welcome news from New York, which 
he passed through some three weeks ago. The even- 
ing passes in conversation with the newcomer, and, as 
is now the habit, a game of bridge is indulged in 
before we retire. 

Sunday, June jd. — Our stay at peaceful Banff is at 
an end. Much recreated by the two days' idyllic rest, 
we return to our cars at about ten o'clock in the morn- 
ing and have them attached to the " Imperial Limited " 
en route for Montreal. Shortly after leaving Banff 
we pass out of the mountain region and emerge upon 
the great plain, which extends some fifteen hundred 
miles to Lake Superior. We pass many towns, vil- 
lages, and hamlets, all sprung up quite recently, but 
nothing of special interest offers itself. The day is 
passed with reading, talking, and a bit of bridge play- 



ing, not to speak of the meals, which form the mile- 
stones in the daily routine of railroad travel, and, being 
ten at table, always form a pleasant and entertaining 
gathering. In this northern country darkness at this 
time of the year sets in very late, and the evening being 
short, before we are aware of it the hour to retire has 
arrived. 

Monday, June 4^ n - — This is a quiet, uneventful 
day. We are traversing the wide, unbroken, and to 
a great extent yet uncultivated prairies of Western 
Canada, in the forenoon the Province of Alberta, and 
Manitoba in the afternoon. It is worth while to ob- 
serve the many new hamlets and villages springing 
up along the line of the railroad and which so point- 
edly mark the march of empire and civilization. To 
me in particular this development is fascinating. 
Having been, to some extent, connected some twenty 
years ago with the early financing of the Canadian 
Pacific Railway, over which we are traveling, and 
having at that time frequently had to hear the prophecy 
from pessimistic opponents of the enterprise that the 
principal traffic of the road would be snow and ice, 
I again become impressed, as I have been so often be- 
fore, that there is no room for the pessimist and cheap 



prophet on this great continent, the hope and the fu- 
ture of the millions who, driven from the narrow- 
ness of the Old World, are turning the North Amer- 
ican wilderness into God's paradise, a happy haven 
for a goodly part of the human race. We reach 
Winnipeg toward evening, and soon the day is at 
an end. 

Tuesday, June Jjth. — This morning finds us at Fort 
William, near the northwesterly corner of Lake Su- 
perior. The station master brings the mail, which has 
been sent him for us from New York, and we are made 
happy with the good reports the letters convey. Soon 
we are gliding along the north shore of Superior. It 
is not only a fine view this expanse of the big lake 
with its many islets at our feet, but we also admire 
the wonderful construction of the railroad, which is 
literally hewn into the rocky border of the lake, fol- 
lowing like a snake its many windings. This goes on 
for hours, the lake scenery continually changing and 
opening new, fine vistas. Interest is thus kept alive 
almost the entire day, and before we are aware of it 
the time has come for the evening meal. This being 
the birthday of our son Mortimer, the entire party 
gladly embraces the opportunity to empty a glass of 



champagne to his health and happiness; another day 
has gone by. 

Wednesday, June 6th. — As we expect to reach 
Montreal toward evening, the day suffers somewhat 
in sociability, everybody being on the qui vive for 
the arrival. A little reading, some talking, a couple 
of hours' bridge playing in the afternoon, and we get 
to Ottawa, the capital of the Dominion. We get a 
good view of the Parliament buildings, picturesquely 
Located on a high bluff, overlooking the river. On we 
pass through old Canada, and, as evening arrives, we 
reach Montreal, where we have decided to remain for 
a day before we proceed to New York, completing our 
journey. Consequently, we leave our cars and drive 
to the Place Viger Hotel, take dinner, and after a 
short walk, we retire for the night. 

Thursday, June Jth. — Having been four days on 
the rail, the comforts of a steady bed and a refreshing 
bath arc much enjoyed by all. To start the stay in the 
larger town properly the ladies decide to go on a shop- 
ping expedition, and during their exploration of the 
bargain counters, 1 visit Mr. Clouston, the general 
manager of the Bank of Montreal, an old business 
friend, who receives me most cordially and explains 



many interesting matters in connection with Canadian 
banking. I then call upon Sir Thomas Shaugnessie, 
the President of the Canadian Pacific Railway Com- 
pany, to express appreciation of the courtesies received 
from his company in the transportation of our cars 
from Vancouver to Montreal. Remaining with Sir 
Thomas for some time we talk of olden times and 
events during the infancy of the Canadian Pacific 
Railway, as well as of the men who built up this great 
system, which has contributed so much toward the 
political consolidation and strength of the Dominion, 
and at the same time has so greatly helped to make it 
prosperous. Leaving the Canadian Pacific Railway ' 
offices I return to the hotel to call for Mother, Otto, 
and Ernst Schiff to drive to the residence of Sir Wil- 
liam Van Home, from whom we had accepted an 
invitation for luncheon. Sir William Van Home, 
the early general manager of the Canadian Pacific 
Railway, later its vice-president, then president, and 
now chairman of the board of directors, is a man of 
high artistic taste. He has built a spacious residence 
filled with art treasures, his paintings including fine 
examples of the old masters and also of the early Eng- 
lish school. He is, moreover, an amateur painter of 



no mean caliber, some of the landscapes he has painted 
showing considerable originality and strength of color. 
His collections of Japanese and Chinese curios, as well 
as porcelains, include many exquisite examples, and it 
is a matter of much regret to us that we have not the 
time to give these collections more than a cursory in- 
spection before and after luncheon. At the latter we 
meet Lady Van Home, the son and daughter of the 
house, and also Sir Thomas Shaugnessie. We leave 
toward four o'clock and call at the hotel for the other 
members of our party to drive to the Victoria Hospital, 
which Mr. Clouston (of the Bank of Montreal), one of 
the hospital's active directors, has invited us to inspect. 
The Victoria Hospital is located upon an elevation 
at the foot of Mount Royal Park in a square contain- 
ing twenty-seven acres, was constructed at the expense 
of Lord Mountstephen and Lord Strathcona, has been 
very liberally endowed by these men — sufficient to 
support its entire annual expenditures — and presented 
by them to the city. It contains 300 beds, a training 
school for nurses, and is equipped in the most approved 
modern manner. To have the means, the heart, and 
the public spirit to carry out so beneficent an under- 
taking must in itself be a great happiness and a blessing 



both to the generous givers — with whom I have the 
satisfaction to be personally acquainted, especially 
with Lord Mountstephen — and cannot but serve as a 
stimulus to others to be public-spirited and to do good. 
From the hospital we drive into Mount Royal Park, 
which in its fresh green verdure looks most beautiful. 
We have a fine view from the observatory terrace, over- 
looking the city and its surroundings. The afternoon 
having meantime far advanced, we return to the hotel 
to get ready for our departure, and we find ourselves 
again on board of our cars at half past seven o'clock, 
sitting down to dinner while the train moves out of 
the station. This being the parting meal before our 
expected arrival at New York in the early morning, 
Neustadt and Budge both wax eloquent, and in warm 
sentiments express their appreciation of Mother's and 
my own hospitality and of all the many interesting 
sights and attentions we have procured for them dur- 
ing the three and a half months' journey, now so hap- 
pily ended, by God's mercy, in good health and with- 
out any mishap. Dinner over, the ladies retire to 
prepare for an early rise, and soon we have all sought, 
for the last time, our beds before we come once more 
into our own home, as we hope to do to-morrow. 



Friday, June 8th. — We rise early and take a last 
breakfast upon the cars, which have brought us so 
comfortably from the Pacific to the Atlantic. At 
about eight o'clock the train rolls into the Grand 
Central Station and our long journey is ended. Felix, 
Mortimer, and Adele are awaiting us with other 
friends at the station, and we are as happy to see the 
dear faces again as they are to see us. Leaving the 
station we drive to the boat at Forty-second Street and 
North River, which conveys us to the Atlantic High- 
lands, where we take the train for Seabright. Arriv- 
ing at Seabright shortly after eleven o'clock, we find 
Frieda, Carola, Frederick, and Gerald (and also Eda 
Loeb) awaiting us, all smiles like ourselves; we are 
rapidly driven to our own dear country home, where 
Baby Paul likewise welcomes us home. " East or 
west, home is best. " Thus is ended our journey to 
the " Far East," covering 20,000 miles during an ab- 
sence of fourteen weeks. Successful from start to fin- 
ish, we are grateful to God for the good health all of 
us have enjoyed throughout, for having indeed blessed 
" our going out and our coming in." It has been the 
most interesting episode of our lives, to which we hope 
to be permitted to look back for many years to come, 



and when we have passed away, perhaps this record 
of the enjoyable journey of the parents and grand- 
parents may stimulate the interest of children and 
grandchildren in a civilization which is now so rap- 
idly changing, and in countries destined to play a most 
important role in history yet unwritten. 



MAR 9 1907 



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